Special Tactics For Online Poker Tournaments
I've gotten a lot of questions from readers lately about
ONLINE TOURNAMENT STRATEGY... and how SIT AND GO SHARK fits
in exactly.
Read below to learn some killer tactics and new skills. If
you haven't gotten my SIT AND GO SHARK software yet, click
this link right now:
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
- Roy
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Thank You - It Works!
Roy,
I had to write back and tell you my results.
First, my mistake was that I was playing 18 and 27 sit & go
tourneys. I moved to the 10 player ones and applied your
principles and had amazing results for a newcomer. I played
5 tournaments tonight and the results are as follows:
1st place
2nd place
4th place (I made a big mistake)
5th place (Just could not get any cards what so
ever in this one, snake bit)
1st place
Won money 3 out of the 5 times. Pretty spectacular!
I don't know how to steal blinds very well. I've only been
playing poker for 6 weeks. Can you send along a message on
how to steal blinds?
Many thanks, your strategy makes so much sense and it really
works.
S.M.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Awesome! You've only been playing poker for SIX WEEKS and
you're already consistently finishing in the money at Sit
and Go's...
I like what I'm hearing.
As for stealing the blinds, here are some thoughts...
I've simplified Sit and Go strategy into seven key
components, which I call "Critical Success Factors."
Every situation in a Sit and Go can be handled by thinking
about these components:
Critical Success Factor #1: YOUR CARDS
Stealing the blinds is best done with starting hands that
have lots of OUTS... but aren't so good that you want to see
a flop.
Examples would be suited connectors, medium pocket pairs,
A-J, A-10, K-J, K-Q, and A-2 through A-9 suited.
These starting hands can be easily beat-- usually by higher
kickers. But they still have a good chance of winning if you
hit a favorable flop.
Anyway, the goal is to make a substantial pre-flop raise
that scares everyone out so that you can collect the blinds.
But if someone CALLS your raise, it's not the end of the
world because you can still hit a good flop and win the pot.
More importantly, you'll know you've scared out the hands
that are just SLIGHTLY better than yours.
For example, if you've got A-6 suited and you make a 5x big
blind pre-flop raise, someone with A-7 will probably fold...
thus increasing your chances of winning after the flop.
Critical Success Factor #2: POSITIONING
Your positioning at the table is CRUCIAL to successfully
stealing the blinds. You want to be in LATE position... that
way you can get a read on your opponents.
Steal the blinds when you sense WEAKNESS. This is
demonstrated when the players behind you limp-in to see a
cheap flop.
Critical Success Factor #3: TABLE MOMENTUM
If the table you're at is loose and aggressive, don't try to
steal the blinds. It won't work.
The best time to take a stab at it is when the momentum at
the table is TIGHT and there haven't been a lot of pre-flop
raises lately.
Critical Success Factor #4: BETTING PATTERNS
Watch to see who's in the small and big blind-- and WHAT
THEIR HABITS ARE in these positions. Some players will
defend their blinds to the death, while others will forfeit
them easily.
You obviously want to strike when the timid players are in
the blinds... because it decreases your odds of getting a
caller.
Critical Success Factor #5: POT ODDS
A common mistake made by amateurs is to commit TOO MANY
CHIPS to a pot when trying to steal the blinds.
Calculate your pot odds and be reasonable. Don't risk 800
chips just to win 50.
Critical Success Factor #6: NUMBER OF PLAYERS
The number of players in the game largely determines how
much you'll have to bet to win the blinds.
For Sit and Go's, I generally don't buy blinds until the
later stages of the game-- for three reasons:
1. That's when the blinds are higher.
2. That's when players tighten up.
3. That's when there are fewer players in.
Critical Success Factor #7: STACK SIZES
Stealing the blinds often requires a "one-two punch". That
means not only a pre-flop raise, but also a large post-flop
bet to "represent".
It's best to go after someone with a SMALLER CHIP STACK than
you. That way if you get caught with your "hand in the
cookie jar" there's a cap on your losses.
Plus, your bluffs will be more effective against someone
with fewer chips because even if they THINK you're
bluffing-- they can't afford to be wrong.
***
OK, so that's how you steal blinds.
This concept of "Critical Success Factors" is actually the
foundation of how I developed my SIT AND GO SHARK software.
As you play Sit and Go's, SHARK will sit beside you and give
CUSTOMIZED ADVICE-- based on each of the 7 factors-- all in
REAL-TIME!
To read more about this topic and how it can help you win
Sit and Go tournaments, click here:
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hi Roy,
Your e-mails have helped me tons, my game has improved 10
fold over the space of a month. I need some advice though.
I play 10 player $5 (1500 chips) stt [single table
tournaments] most of the time and I can consistently place
2nd, no problem. But that first place is just out of reach.
I always get beat on the head to head.
By the time the game reaches this stage the blinds are
400/800, so not cheap. I play looser than normal, cause if I
didn't the blinds would beat me. What sort of hands should I
be playing at this point? I know it can be anybody's game
but I've just not managed that top spot yet.
Please help, I'm tired of coming second.
A.P.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Head-to-head action is tough, because virtually all the
rules get tossed out the window.
Here are 5 tips for heads-up play that I think will help
you:
#1. YOU CAN PLAY ANY STARTING HAND. Because the blinds are
already so high, you must be willing to play ANYTHING before
the flop.
If you get an Ace, pair, or two face cards, you should
definitely raise the pot.
#2. BE CAREFUL OF DRAWS. Flush and straight draws can really
get you into trouble heads-up.
For example, if you've got an open-ended straight draw after
the flop and you put your opponent on a pair, be VERY
cautious.
Not only are his odds of winning better, but he'll probably
know as soon as you make your straight. So the "implied
odds" for you aren't very high.
This is why suited connectors are virtually worthless
heads-up-- even a favorable flop will usually only lead to a
DRAW, which is very dangerous.
#3. STOP THINKING ABOUT "WHO HAS THE BEST HAND". Instead,
start thinking about "who doesn't have the worst hand".
Does that make sense?
Most of the time, NEITHER of you will have anything good...
so winning the pot is more about who can scare the other
person out.
#4. BE WILLING TO GO ALL-IN. Large blinds means being ready
to RISK IT ALL.
As soon as you think you've got the best of it, push your
chips into the middle. Take some chances to win first place.
#5 PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. Heads-up skills take a lot of
time to develop. Instead of waiting until you're in the
final two of a 10-player Sit and Go to practice these
skills, go play some heads-up Sit and Go's instead.
Heads-up Sit and Go's will quickly give you a feel for how
often your opponent ACTUALLY catches a pair or good hand...
how often you should raise... and how to set traps.
Most pots heads-up are won before the river, with no one
showing their cards. This makes it difficult for a beginner
to really "know" how he's doing and how to improve.
AND THE BEST PART of heads-up Sit and Go's is that you can
use SIT AND GO SHARK while you play them!
SHARK supports these games-- as well as the heads-up stages
of regular Sit and Go's. That means you'll get my COACHING
and ADVICE every step of the way. This is a surefire way to
improve your chances of winning.
Just go here to download SHARK:
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Always coming up short
Hey Roy,
When I participate in many sit and go tourneys (on line), I
often find myself just short of the money round.
I tend to play tight until the looser players take
themselves out, but this often results in me sitting a
distant fourth or fifth in a ten man tourney... and almost
always short-stacked.
By playing tight, I think I am doing the correct thing, but
the looser players take the pots early and this always seems
to leave me fighting for my life trying to get to 3rd or 4th
place to cash in the tourney.
How can I change these odds? I want to start getting past
the last minute scramble to recover chips that I lost due to
my conservative play. Am I the only one who experiences this
short-stack syndrome??
Maybe the sit and go shark software will help me. What do
you think?
J.S.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Don't worry, what you're going through is actually very
common.
It sounds to me like you're simply playing TOO TIGHT. If you
just stay out of the action and don't win any pots
throughout the game, you won't make it into the money-- it's
that simple.
Loosen up a bit. Try to steal blinds following the advice I
outlined earlier... and when you have a big hand, try to win
a HUGE pot.
Also, you said: "fighting for my life trying to get to 3rd
or 4th place to cash in the tourney".
Try to focus on placing FIRST in the tournament rather than
just in the money. When you make FIRST PLACE your goal,
making it in the money will come more easily.
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Roy,
Hey there. Thanks a lot for your newsletter, ive found it
extremely useful in improving my style of play. Im actually
playing a sit and go online right now, where im currently
1st out of the final 2 players. This brings us to my
question...
While i have found your tips to be very helpful in both sit
and gos and tournament play, i seem to often make 2nd rather
than 1st, or if i make 1st, its a hard battle to it.
Could you maybe give me some tips on heads-up play for when
you have the short stack and when you have the lead? I would
greatly appreciate it.
Thanks a lot for all the help,
O.R.
Stuttgart, Germany
>>> MY COMMENTS:
When you're the SHORT STACK heads-up, you've got to PUSH
ALL-IN relatively quickly.
I like doing this right away as the match begins, because it
develops a tempo and atmosphere that I'M IN CHARGE. You can
often mount a comeback FAST because your opponent isn't
ready for this aggressive style and he just folds his
blinds.
Since there's no time to waste, your all-in moves will often
be COMPLETE BLUFFS. That's OK. It's a chance you must take.
Now when you HAVE THE LEAD, your strategy should be to apply
CONSTANT PRESSURE. Never let your short-stacked opponent get
away with limping-in.
Double the blinds, represent the flop, and be aggressive.
Play your GOOD HANDS like you play every other hand, that
way your opponent is clueless to the cards you're holding...
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Your book and your emails are a great help to me playing on
line. I have improved my sit and go tournaments by reading
and following your advice. I have read several other books
before reading yours and I got more from yours than any of
the others.
I have spead the word to several of my friends that are now
getting your weekly newsletter. Now if you would either in
return email or in your newletter cover some of your
thoughts about larger tournaments. I seem to be able to get
into the top one third but not into the money it seems that
you have to take more chances in playing these than in sit
and go's am I right?
Any advice would be appreciated keep up the good work.
L.C.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Thanks for the referrals, I appreciate it!
Yes, you are absolutely correct that you must take more
chances in multi-table tournaments (MTTs) than in Sit and
Go's.
For an MTT, you've got to win a lot of really big pots to
just make it to the money... and to win these pots, you've
got to take calculated risks.
It's often necessary to see more flops in an MTT, depending
on the quality of players and blinds structure.
If the blinds go up quickly, don't be afraid to sacrifice
some chips early on to see cheap flops in hopes of catching
"lucky" cards.
If you limp-in with something like J-9 suited and hit two
pair, your opponents will never see it coming... and it may
be just what you need to jump out to an early lead.
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hi Gang -
Just wanted to let you know how much I've enjoyed SNG Shark.
Roy, it's like you're right there with me, with the same
great advice and homespun presentation style I enjoy so much
in your email newsletter.
Suddenly playing poker seems like a team sport, and a pack
of wolves can take out a lone sheep in the wilderness just
about every time. Thanks for helping me become a MUCH better
poker player... and you can quote me on that.
FYI, I sent several emails yesterday talking about how I
couldn't get SNG Shark to come up in my "home" XP profile
after installing it in my "work" one. I've solved that
"problem" - just had to go in and set the XP permissions
differently. Smooth sailing from here on. Thanks for
responding to my letters yesterday even tho they seemed a
little incoherent - that's the sign of a good support team,
and you guys are just that.
One happy camper,
R.J.R.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Nice. It sounds like it's time for me to give my support
director a raise. ;-)
If you own SIT AND GO SHARK and have any questions or need
help with anything, just send us an email at:
support@sitandgoshark.com.
That's what we're here for.
Thanks for the kind comments... and I hope your success at
the poker tables continues.
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
I love your tight-aggressive squared approach to 10 man
sitngos. I have consistantly placed in the money with that
strtegy. How does that correspond to 6-man tables? The
dynamics of that seem a little different and it doesn't work
as well for me.
Thanks Roy
D.D.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Great question. You're absolutely right that 6-player Sit
and Go's require an adjustment of strategy.
The Tight-Aggressive Squared approach basically means that
you're TIGHTER and MORE AGGRESSIVE than normal. The reason I
advocate this strategy in 10-player Sit and Go's is because
there are consistently a lot of BAD PLAYERS in these games.
And the more hands you enter, the more likely it is you'll
catch a bad beat against one of these fish-- who plays
something like 10-7 offsuit to a pre-flop raise.
In a 6-player Sit and Go, there are still probably a couple
bad players, but it's not as likely for one of them to be in
every hand with you-- like in a 10-player game.
And just as importantly, a 6-player table means the blinds
come around more frequently, so you'll need to loosen up
your starting hands.
In the beginning stages of a 6-player Sit and Go, I still
recommend being significantly TIGHTER and MORE AGGRESSIVE
with the pots you enter...
But after a player or two gets eliminated, don't focus on
the Tight-Aggressive Squared method as much-- it will have
served its purpose already. It's time to revert to a more
"normal" style of play.
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hi Roy
i have a question regarding tournament strategy. i play a
lot of mtts, for the first hour im very strong. usually in
the top 20 but i find it gets more dificult when the blinds
increase. id say i was a tight player but i play quite
agressive and after reading a lot of books n pro tips it
says when u have a big stack u have to attack the table,
personally i tend to tighten up, and play my premium hands
and suited connectors. i find that when i have a big stack
and am in position im tempted to try n steal the blinds and
things but this is often where i go wrong. when i try n get
a cute it tends to burn me. what shud i do when i raise on
the button and get called? i often find they bet into me and
iv missed so have to fold, or if i think they think im on a
steal i re raise and that often get me in a lot of trouble
(sometimes works tho). if i fold iv prolly lost a decent %
of my stack as the blinds by this stage are large, but being
tight if i dont steal i will ante myself to death which is
no good. so do you have any pointers for late strategy in
mtts when the blinds are large?
would be very helpful
Thanks
C.S.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
It sounds like you're being TOO CONSERVATIVE and TOO
PREDICTABLE. Just because someone CALLS your raise doesn't
mean it's time to freak out.
It just means they have a good hand... and you'll need to
gauge whether you can buy the pot by betting MORE or just
cut your losses and try again later.
Do NOT just try to steal blind when you're on the button--
that's the kiss of death!
Most players see through a raise on the button and know it's
a position play... perhaps that's why you keep running into
callers.
Re-read the beginning of this newsletter about how to steal
blinds-- I think it will help you.
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hey Roy,
Thanks for a great book and killer insight newsletters. It
definitely has improved my game a lot. I am getting pretty
good at sit and gos and i am usually finishing in the money.
I hope you can help me improve my game even more by
answering a couple of questions.
It is especially one hand I have HUGE problems with and that
is KQ. It seems like I am always up against AQ, AK, AA or
KK. How do you play this hand online depending on your
position?
Another problem I have is the multitable tournaments. Out of
664 people I usually finish 501 or 305 depending on how
aggressively i play. The problem is the middle part of the
tournament when most people have 2000 - 3000 chips and the
blinds are let's say 100 - 200. At that stage I guess you
are considered short stack but a lot of other people are
too. If you are going to have a go at the pot you easily put
half your stack in there and that is pretty much the end of
that tournament.
I try to employ some of the same strategy in multitable
tournaments as I do in sit and go tournaments when there are
10 people at the table. This might be the problem too
because with the sit and go tournaments i find myself often
short stacked with 5 or 6 people left, but I usually recover
at this point and finishes in the money. I guess recovering
from short stack at a 10 person table is harder than with 5
or 6 people.
Any thoughts Roy?
Thanks in advance
O.L.
Chicago, Illinois
>>> MY COMMENTS:
I'm going to address your questions in reverse order...
YES, it's much harder to recover from the short stack when
there are 10 players at the table versus when there are just
5 or 6. The reason is because not only is everyone GUNNING
for you, but the chances that SOMEONE at the table has a
premium hand is much higher.
It sounds like you're not building a large enough chip stack
early on... and that's costing you in the middle stages of
the tournament. You said: "If you are going to have a go at
the pot you easily put half your stack in"... YES,
absolutely.
You can actually easily end up with your WHOLE STACK in
there. Like I mentioned earlier, these are the chances you
MUST take in a multi-table tournament to be successful.
For MTTs, you should never be consistently placing in a
"range". You should be either IN THE MONEY or OUT OF THE
MONEY.
When you're OUT of the money, there should be no consistent
pattern to your losses... it may be last place, on the
bubble, whatever.
With no pattern, it means you TOOK A RISK but it didn't work
out. And that's how you SHOULD lose in tournaments. Fighting
for your life with 10x the big blind at a 10-man table is no
fun... so try to build your stack earlier.
Now for your question about how to play K-Q. At a 10-person
table, this hand can definitely get you into trouble because
of those premium hands you mentioned like A-A, A-K, A-Q, and
K-K.
You want to play K-Q not only based on positioning but also
based on your CHIP STACK and the BEHAVIOR OF YOUR OPPONENTS.
If you sense weakness in late positioning and you have some
chips to play with, throw out a pre-flop raise and see what
happens. Your goal is to find out if someone has one of
these deadly premium hands BEFORE THE FLOP-- that way you
still have time to escape.
K-Q is the type of hand to NOT SEE A FLOP and just steal
blinds with... You want to do so, however, when you have
enough chips to scare your opponents and not have to risk
everything.
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Dear Roy,
I have been playing poker for about 2 years now. Every
weekend my buddies and I have a 10-person Sit & Go for
fairly small buy-ins. I would have to say that I place in
the money or win everyweek.
The only amateur problem I am portraying is that I tend to
feel bad for my opponents since they are my friends. If you
could tell me how to get past this weakness it would be of
great satisfaction to me.
Your friend,
C.T.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Let me get this straight:
You FEEL BAD because you keep beating your friends week
after week?!
I love it.
Here, I've got two ideas for you:
1. Grow up. Winning is a part of poker-- if you can't handle
embarrassing your friends every week, maybe you shouldn't
play with them anymore.
2. If you insist on playing with these friends who you
ALWAYS beat, next time bring a REALLY HOT GIRL with you to
the game...
Your buddies will be so distracted and grateful that you'll
win their money EVEN EASIER than before... and they won't
even care!
(LOL, I love my job.)
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hey Roy,
I've been getting your newsletters for months now, and man!!
Great job with the sit-and-go strategies. They work almost
every time. My problem is coming into play in MTT's of
between 450-1000 ppl online. I have been consistently
getting top 100 finishes (which means in the small money),
but I just can't seem to break the big finishes. What the
heck am I doing wrong?
I'm staying as tight as I can with the large blinds and
idiots raising with nothing. How can I stay on my game and
win without going all-in on absolute crap cards? It seems
like that is the way these morons are winning these tourneys
after me.
Is there something of a strategy that can help me out?
Thanks for all your help and I hope you can help me with
this one.
J.P.
Calgary, Alberta
>>> MY COMMENTS:
I've pretty much covered your question earlier in this
newsletter, but I'd also point out to be aware of the STAKES
you're playing at.
A large MTT with a $5 buy-in will attract a lot of awful
players, and that might be part of your problem.
If you see "idiots" consistently winning these tournaments,
maybe you should raise the stakes (if your bankroll allows
it).
You've also brought up a great point about WATCHING THE
WINNERS OF TOURNAMENTS.
When I first started playing poker, this is precisely how I
developed a lot of my skills... by carefully STUDYING the
guys who made it all the way through a tournament.
I took notes on how often they entered pots, when they
raised, when they bluffed, and so on. If you've never done
this before, I highly recommend it. You'll be amazed at all
the lessons you learn.
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Roy,
I started using Shark yesterday. Very NICE!!! I've played
over 10 $5 SnGs on Pokerroom.com and have finished out of
the $ only once. I like the occassional comedy you inserted
too, nice touch.
The advice mirrors your Tight/Aggressive Squared model,
which I had already adopted for online SnGs so I find myself
agreeing with nearly everything the Shark tells me.
It is nice to have you sitting over my shoulder making sure
I don't do anything I know I shouldn't. If I'm tempted, I
look at the screen and see you sitting at the WSOP table :)
Then I do the right thing and toss my cards :)
Thanks again, buddy.
S.S.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
WOW. 9 out of 10 Sit and Go's in the money... on the very
FIRST DAY! You are a stud, my friend.
I'm getting HUNDREDS of these types of success stories about
SIT AND GO SHARK every week...
If you're reading this right now and haven't taken the time
to download the software yet, do so NOW.
There's no better way to MASTER poker tournaments while
MAKING GREAT MONEY AT THE SAME TIME.
SHARK will give you step-by-step coaching and advice as you
play... based on the 7 Critical Success Factors I talked
about earlier.
It's quick to download and install, incredibly easy to use,
and 100% legal and safe at the online poker rooms.
Take advantage of this no-brainer opportunity right now--
and watch your online poker profits skyrocket as a result.
Click here to visit the official SIT AND GO SHARK website:
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
I'll talk to you again soon.
ONLINE TOURNAMENT STRATEGY... and how SIT AND GO SHARK fits
in exactly.
Read below to learn some killer tactics and new skills. If
you haven't gotten my SIT AND GO SHARK software yet, click
this link right now:
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
- Roy
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Thank You - It Works!
Roy,
I had to write back and tell you my results.
First, my mistake was that I was playing 18 and 27 sit & go
tourneys. I moved to the 10 player ones and applied your
principles and had amazing results for a newcomer. I played
5 tournaments tonight and the results are as follows:
1st place
2nd place
4th place (I made a big mistake)
5th place (Just could not get any cards what so
ever in this one, snake bit)
1st place
Won money 3 out of the 5 times. Pretty spectacular!
I don't know how to steal blinds very well. I've only been
playing poker for 6 weeks. Can you send along a message on
how to steal blinds?
Many thanks, your strategy makes so much sense and it really
works.
S.M.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Awesome! You've only been playing poker for SIX WEEKS and
you're already consistently finishing in the money at Sit
and Go's...
I like what I'm hearing.
As for stealing the blinds, here are some thoughts...
I've simplified Sit and Go strategy into seven key
components, which I call "Critical Success Factors."
Every situation in a Sit and Go can be handled by thinking
about these components:
Critical Success Factor #1: YOUR CARDS
Stealing the blinds is best done with starting hands that
have lots of OUTS... but aren't so good that you want to see
a flop.
Examples would be suited connectors, medium pocket pairs,
A-J, A-10, K-J, K-Q, and A-2 through A-9 suited.
These starting hands can be easily beat-- usually by higher
kickers. But they still have a good chance of winning if you
hit a favorable flop.
Anyway, the goal is to make a substantial pre-flop raise
that scares everyone out so that you can collect the blinds.
But if someone CALLS your raise, it's not the end of the
world because you can still hit a good flop and win the pot.
More importantly, you'll know you've scared out the hands
that are just SLIGHTLY better than yours.
For example, if you've got A-6 suited and you make a 5x big
blind pre-flop raise, someone with A-7 will probably fold...
thus increasing your chances of winning after the flop.
Critical Success Factor #2: POSITIONING
Your positioning at the table is CRUCIAL to successfully
stealing the blinds. You want to be in LATE position... that
way you can get a read on your opponents.
Steal the blinds when you sense WEAKNESS. This is
demonstrated when the players behind you limp-in to see a
cheap flop.
Critical Success Factor #3: TABLE MOMENTUM
If the table you're at is loose and aggressive, don't try to
steal the blinds. It won't work.
The best time to take a stab at it is when the momentum at
the table is TIGHT and there haven't been a lot of pre-flop
raises lately.
Critical Success Factor #4: BETTING PATTERNS
Watch to see who's in the small and big blind-- and WHAT
THEIR HABITS ARE in these positions. Some players will
defend their blinds to the death, while others will forfeit
them easily.
You obviously want to strike when the timid players are in
the blinds... because it decreases your odds of getting a
caller.
Critical Success Factor #5: POT ODDS
A common mistake made by amateurs is to commit TOO MANY
CHIPS to a pot when trying to steal the blinds.
Calculate your pot odds and be reasonable. Don't risk 800
chips just to win 50.
Critical Success Factor #6: NUMBER OF PLAYERS
The number of players in the game largely determines how
much you'll have to bet to win the blinds.
For Sit and Go's, I generally don't buy blinds until the
later stages of the game-- for three reasons:
1. That's when the blinds are higher.
2. That's when players tighten up.
3. That's when there are fewer players in.
Critical Success Factor #7: STACK SIZES
Stealing the blinds often requires a "one-two punch". That
means not only a pre-flop raise, but also a large post-flop
bet to "represent".
It's best to go after someone with a SMALLER CHIP STACK than
you. That way if you get caught with your "hand in the
cookie jar" there's a cap on your losses.
Plus, your bluffs will be more effective against someone
with fewer chips because even if they THINK you're
bluffing-- they can't afford to be wrong.
***
OK, so that's how you steal blinds.
This concept of "Critical Success Factors" is actually the
foundation of how I developed my SIT AND GO SHARK software.
As you play Sit and Go's, SHARK will sit beside you and give
CUSTOMIZED ADVICE-- based on each of the 7 factors-- all in
REAL-TIME!
To read more about this topic and how it can help you win
Sit and Go tournaments, click here:
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hi Roy,
Your e-mails have helped me tons, my game has improved 10
fold over the space of a month. I need some advice though.
I play 10 player $5 (1500 chips) stt [single table
tournaments] most of the time and I can consistently place
2nd, no problem. But that first place is just out of reach.
I always get beat on the head to head.
By the time the game reaches this stage the blinds are
400/800, so not cheap. I play looser than normal, cause if I
didn't the blinds would beat me. What sort of hands should I
be playing at this point? I know it can be anybody's game
but I've just not managed that top spot yet.
Please help, I'm tired of coming second.
A.P.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Head-to-head action is tough, because virtually all the
rules get tossed out the window.
Here are 5 tips for heads-up play that I think will help
you:
#1. YOU CAN PLAY ANY STARTING HAND. Because the blinds are
already so high, you must be willing to play ANYTHING before
the flop.
If you get an Ace, pair, or two face cards, you should
definitely raise the pot.
#2. BE CAREFUL OF DRAWS. Flush and straight draws can really
get you into trouble heads-up.
For example, if you've got an open-ended straight draw after
the flop and you put your opponent on a pair, be VERY
cautious.
Not only are his odds of winning better, but he'll probably
know as soon as you make your straight. So the "implied
odds" for you aren't very high.
This is why suited connectors are virtually worthless
heads-up-- even a favorable flop will usually only lead to a
DRAW, which is very dangerous.
#3. STOP THINKING ABOUT "WHO HAS THE BEST HAND". Instead,
start thinking about "who doesn't have the worst hand".
Does that make sense?
Most of the time, NEITHER of you will have anything good...
so winning the pot is more about who can scare the other
person out.
#4. BE WILLING TO GO ALL-IN. Large blinds means being ready
to RISK IT ALL.
As soon as you think you've got the best of it, push your
chips into the middle. Take some chances to win first place.
#5 PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. Heads-up skills take a lot of
time to develop. Instead of waiting until you're in the
final two of a 10-player Sit and Go to practice these
skills, go play some heads-up Sit and Go's instead.
Heads-up Sit and Go's will quickly give you a feel for how
often your opponent ACTUALLY catches a pair or good hand...
how often you should raise... and how to set traps.
Most pots heads-up are won before the river, with no one
showing their cards. This makes it difficult for a beginner
to really "know" how he's doing and how to improve.
AND THE BEST PART of heads-up Sit and Go's is that you can
use SIT AND GO SHARK while you play them!
SHARK supports these games-- as well as the heads-up stages
of regular Sit and Go's. That means you'll get my COACHING
and ADVICE every step of the way. This is a surefire way to
improve your chances of winning.
Just go here to download SHARK:
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Always coming up short
Hey Roy,
When I participate in many sit and go tourneys (on line), I
often find myself just short of the money round.
I tend to play tight until the looser players take
themselves out, but this often results in me sitting a
distant fourth or fifth in a ten man tourney... and almost
always short-stacked.
By playing tight, I think I am doing the correct thing, but
the looser players take the pots early and this always seems
to leave me fighting for my life trying to get to 3rd or 4th
place to cash in the tourney.
How can I change these odds? I want to start getting past
the last minute scramble to recover chips that I lost due to
my conservative play. Am I the only one who experiences this
short-stack syndrome??
Maybe the sit and go shark software will help me. What do
you think?
J.S.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Don't worry, what you're going through is actually very
common.
It sounds to me like you're simply playing TOO TIGHT. If you
just stay out of the action and don't win any pots
throughout the game, you won't make it into the money-- it's
that simple.
Loosen up a bit. Try to steal blinds following the advice I
outlined earlier... and when you have a big hand, try to win
a HUGE pot.
Also, you said: "fighting for my life trying to get to 3rd
or 4th place to cash in the tourney".
Try to focus on placing FIRST in the tournament rather than
just in the money. When you make FIRST PLACE your goal,
making it in the money will come more easily.
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Roy,
Hey there. Thanks a lot for your newsletter, ive found it
extremely useful in improving my style of play. Im actually
playing a sit and go online right now, where im currently
1st out of the final 2 players. This brings us to my
question...
While i have found your tips to be very helpful in both sit
and gos and tournament play, i seem to often make 2nd rather
than 1st, or if i make 1st, its a hard battle to it.
Could you maybe give me some tips on heads-up play for when
you have the short stack and when you have the lead? I would
greatly appreciate it.
Thanks a lot for all the help,
O.R.
Stuttgart, Germany
>>> MY COMMENTS:
When you're the SHORT STACK heads-up, you've got to PUSH
ALL-IN relatively quickly.
I like doing this right away as the match begins, because it
develops a tempo and atmosphere that I'M IN CHARGE. You can
often mount a comeback FAST because your opponent isn't
ready for this aggressive style and he just folds his
blinds.
Since there's no time to waste, your all-in moves will often
be COMPLETE BLUFFS. That's OK. It's a chance you must take.
Now when you HAVE THE LEAD, your strategy should be to apply
CONSTANT PRESSURE. Never let your short-stacked opponent get
away with limping-in.
Double the blinds, represent the flop, and be aggressive.
Play your GOOD HANDS like you play every other hand, that
way your opponent is clueless to the cards you're holding...
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Your book and your emails are a great help to me playing on
line. I have improved my sit and go tournaments by reading
and following your advice. I have read several other books
before reading yours and I got more from yours than any of
the others.
I have spead the word to several of my friends that are now
getting your weekly newsletter. Now if you would either in
return email or in your newletter cover some of your
thoughts about larger tournaments. I seem to be able to get
into the top one third but not into the money it seems that
you have to take more chances in playing these than in sit
and go's am I right?
Any advice would be appreciated keep up the good work.
L.C.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Thanks for the referrals, I appreciate it!
Yes, you are absolutely correct that you must take more
chances in multi-table tournaments (MTTs) than in Sit and
Go's.
For an MTT, you've got to win a lot of really big pots to
just make it to the money... and to win these pots, you've
got to take calculated risks.
It's often necessary to see more flops in an MTT, depending
on the quality of players and blinds structure.
If the blinds go up quickly, don't be afraid to sacrifice
some chips early on to see cheap flops in hopes of catching
"lucky" cards.
If you limp-in with something like J-9 suited and hit two
pair, your opponents will never see it coming... and it may
be just what you need to jump out to an early lead.
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hi Gang -
Just wanted to let you know how much I've enjoyed SNG Shark.
Roy, it's like you're right there with me, with the same
great advice and homespun presentation style I enjoy so much
in your email newsletter.
Suddenly playing poker seems like a team sport, and a pack
of wolves can take out a lone sheep in the wilderness just
about every time. Thanks for helping me become a MUCH better
poker player... and you can quote me on that.
FYI, I sent several emails yesterday talking about how I
couldn't get SNG Shark to come up in my "home" XP profile
after installing it in my "work" one. I've solved that
"problem" - just had to go in and set the XP permissions
differently. Smooth sailing from here on. Thanks for
responding to my letters yesterday even tho they seemed a
little incoherent - that's the sign of a good support team,
and you guys are just that.
One happy camper,
R.J.R.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Nice. It sounds like it's time for me to give my support
director a raise. ;-)
If you own SIT AND GO SHARK and have any questions or need
help with anything, just send us an email at:
support@sitandgoshark.com.
That's what we're here for.
Thanks for the kind comments... and I hope your success at
the poker tables continues.
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
I love your tight-aggressive squared approach to 10 man
sitngos. I have consistantly placed in the money with that
strtegy. How does that correspond to 6-man tables? The
dynamics of that seem a little different and it doesn't work
as well for me.
Thanks Roy
D.D.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Great question. You're absolutely right that 6-player Sit
and Go's require an adjustment of strategy.
The Tight-Aggressive Squared approach basically means that
you're TIGHTER and MORE AGGRESSIVE than normal. The reason I
advocate this strategy in 10-player Sit and Go's is because
there are consistently a lot of BAD PLAYERS in these games.
And the more hands you enter, the more likely it is you'll
catch a bad beat against one of these fish-- who plays
something like 10-7 offsuit to a pre-flop raise.
In a 6-player Sit and Go, there are still probably a couple
bad players, but it's not as likely for one of them to be in
every hand with you-- like in a 10-player game.
And just as importantly, a 6-player table means the blinds
come around more frequently, so you'll need to loosen up
your starting hands.
In the beginning stages of a 6-player Sit and Go, I still
recommend being significantly TIGHTER and MORE AGGRESSIVE
with the pots you enter...
But after a player or two gets eliminated, don't focus on
the Tight-Aggressive Squared method as much-- it will have
served its purpose already. It's time to revert to a more
"normal" style of play.
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hi Roy
i have a question regarding tournament strategy. i play a
lot of mtts, for the first hour im very strong. usually in
the top 20 but i find it gets more dificult when the blinds
increase. id say i was a tight player but i play quite
agressive and after reading a lot of books n pro tips it
says when u have a big stack u have to attack the table,
personally i tend to tighten up, and play my premium hands
and suited connectors. i find that when i have a big stack
and am in position im tempted to try n steal the blinds and
things but this is often where i go wrong. when i try n get
a cute it tends to burn me. what shud i do when i raise on
the button and get called? i often find they bet into me and
iv missed so have to fold, or if i think they think im on a
steal i re raise and that often get me in a lot of trouble
(sometimes works tho). if i fold iv prolly lost a decent %
of my stack as the blinds by this stage are large, but being
tight if i dont steal i will ante myself to death which is
no good. so do you have any pointers for late strategy in
mtts when the blinds are large?
would be very helpful
Thanks
C.S.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
It sounds like you're being TOO CONSERVATIVE and TOO
PREDICTABLE. Just because someone CALLS your raise doesn't
mean it's time to freak out.
It just means they have a good hand... and you'll need to
gauge whether you can buy the pot by betting MORE or just
cut your losses and try again later.
Do NOT just try to steal blind when you're on the button--
that's the kiss of death!
Most players see through a raise on the button and know it's
a position play... perhaps that's why you keep running into
callers.
Re-read the beginning of this newsletter about how to steal
blinds-- I think it will help you.
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hey Roy,
Thanks for a great book and killer insight newsletters. It
definitely has improved my game a lot. I am getting pretty
good at sit and gos and i am usually finishing in the money.
I hope you can help me improve my game even more by
answering a couple of questions.
It is especially one hand I have HUGE problems with and that
is KQ. It seems like I am always up against AQ, AK, AA or
KK. How do you play this hand online depending on your
position?
Another problem I have is the multitable tournaments. Out of
664 people I usually finish 501 or 305 depending on how
aggressively i play. The problem is the middle part of the
tournament when most people have 2000 - 3000 chips and the
blinds are let's say 100 - 200. At that stage I guess you
are considered short stack but a lot of other people are
too. If you are going to have a go at the pot you easily put
half your stack in there and that is pretty much the end of
that tournament.
I try to employ some of the same strategy in multitable
tournaments as I do in sit and go tournaments when there are
10 people at the table. This might be the problem too
because with the sit and go tournaments i find myself often
short stacked with 5 or 6 people left, but I usually recover
at this point and finishes in the money. I guess recovering
from short stack at a 10 person table is harder than with 5
or 6 people.
Any thoughts Roy?
Thanks in advance
O.L.
Chicago, Illinois
>>> MY COMMENTS:
I'm going to address your questions in reverse order...
YES, it's much harder to recover from the short stack when
there are 10 players at the table versus when there are just
5 or 6. The reason is because not only is everyone GUNNING
for you, but the chances that SOMEONE at the table has a
premium hand is much higher.
It sounds like you're not building a large enough chip stack
early on... and that's costing you in the middle stages of
the tournament. You said: "If you are going to have a go at
the pot you easily put half your stack in"... YES,
absolutely.
You can actually easily end up with your WHOLE STACK in
there. Like I mentioned earlier, these are the chances you
MUST take in a multi-table tournament to be successful.
For MTTs, you should never be consistently placing in a
"range". You should be either IN THE MONEY or OUT OF THE
MONEY.
When you're OUT of the money, there should be no consistent
pattern to your losses... it may be last place, on the
bubble, whatever.
With no pattern, it means you TOOK A RISK but it didn't work
out. And that's how you SHOULD lose in tournaments. Fighting
for your life with 10x the big blind at a 10-man table is no
fun... so try to build your stack earlier.
Now for your question about how to play K-Q. At a 10-person
table, this hand can definitely get you into trouble because
of those premium hands you mentioned like A-A, A-K, A-Q, and
K-K.
You want to play K-Q not only based on positioning but also
based on your CHIP STACK and the BEHAVIOR OF YOUR OPPONENTS.
If you sense weakness in late positioning and you have some
chips to play with, throw out a pre-flop raise and see what
happens. Your goal is to find out if someone has one of
these deadly premium hands BEFORE THE FLOP-- that way you
still have time to escape.
K-Q is the type of hand to NOT SEE A FLOP and just steal
blinds with... You want to do so, however, when you have
enough chips to scare your opponents and not have to risk
everything.
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Dear Roy,
I have been playing poker for about 2 years now. Every
weekend my buddies and I have a 10-person Sit & Go for
fairly small buy-ins. I would have to say that I place in
the money or win everyweek.
The only amateur problem I am portraying is that I tend to
feel bad for my opponents since they are my friends. If you
could tell me how to get past this weakness it would be of
great satisfaction to me.
Your friend,
C.T.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Let me get this straight:
You FEEL BAD because you keep beating your friends week
after week?!
I love it.
Here, I've got two ideas for you:
1. Grow up. Winning is a part of poker-- if you can't handle
embarrassing your friends every week, maybe you shouldn't
play with them anymore.
2. If you insist on playing with these friends who you
ALWAYS beat, next time bring a REALLY HOT GIRL with you to
the game...
Your buddies will be so distracted and grateful that you'll
win their money EVEN EASIER than before... and they won't
even care!
(LOL, I love my job.)
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Hey Roy,
I've been getting your newsletters for months now, and man!!
Great job with the sit-and-go strategies. They work almost
every time. My problem is coming into play in MTT's of
between 450-1000 ppl online. I have been consistently
getting top 100 finishes (which means in the small money),
but I just can't seem to break the big finishes. What the
heck am I doing wrong?
I'm staying as tight as I can with the large blinds and
idiots raising with nothing. How can I stay on my game and
win without going all-in on absolute crap cards? It seems
like that is the way these morons are winning these tourneys
after me.
Is there something of a strategy that can help me out?
Thanks for all your help and I hope you can help me with
this one.
J.P.
Calgary, Alberta
>>> MY COMMENTS:
I've pretty much covered your question earlier in this
newsletter, but I'd also point out to be aware of the STAKES
you're playing at.
A large MTT with a $5 buy-in will attract a lot of awful
players, and that might be part of your problem.
If you see "idiots" consistently winning these tournaments,
maybe you should raise the stakes (if your bankroll allows
it).
You've also brought up a great point about WATCHING THE
WINNERS OF TOURNAMENTS.
When I first started playing poker, this is precisely how I
developed a lot of my skills... by carefully STUDYING the
guys who made it all the way through a tournament.
I took notes on how often they entered pots, when they
raised, when they bluffed, and so on. If you've never done
this before, I highly recommend it. You'll be amazed at all
the lessons you learn.
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
*** QUESTION FROM READER ***
Roy,
I started using Shark yesterday. Very NICE!!! I've played
over 10 $5 SnGs on Pokerroom.com and have finished out of
the $ only once. I like the occassional comedy you inserted
too, nice touch.
The advice mirrors your Tight/Aggressive Squared model,
which I had already adopted for online SnGs so I find myself
agreeing with nearly everything the Shark tells me.
It is nice to have you sitting over my shoulder making sure
I don't do anything I know I shouldn't. If I'm tempted, I
look at the screen and see you sitting at the WSOP table :)
Then I do the right thing and toss my cards :)
Thanks again, buddy.
S.S.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
WOW. 9 out of 10 Sit and Go's in the money... on the very
FIRST DAY! You are a stud, my friend.
I'm getting HUNDREDS of these types of success stories about
SIT AND GO SHARK every week...
If you're reading this right now and haven't taken the time
to download the software yet, do so NOW.
There's no better way to MASTER poker tournaments while
MAKING GREAT MONEY AT THE SAME TIME.
SHARK will give you step-by-step coaching and advice as you
play... based on the 7 Critical Success Factors I talked
about earlier.
It's quick to download and install, incredibly easy to use,
and 100% legal and safe at the online poker rooms.
Take advantage of this no-brainer opportunity right now--
and watch your online poker profits skyrocket as a result.
Click here to visit the official SIT AND GO SHARK website:
http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP
I'll talk to you again soon.
Labels: Online poker tournaments
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