A Dangerous Mistake That Will Cost You Money

Here is a DANGEROUS MISTAKE that I'd say about 97% of people
make when playing Texas Holdem:

THEY DON'T KNOW THE RIGHT METHOD FOR PLAYING IN FIRST
POSITION, BEFORE THE FLOP.

This is the player immediately to the left of the big blind.
It's the first person to act as soon as the cards are dealt.

This position is nicknamed "under the gun".

And with good reason, too.

Because this is THE most DANGEROUS and COSTLY position at
the table.

Here's why:

1. When you're under the gun, you are FIRST to act BEFORE
the flop... and one of the first to act AFTER the flop.

This means you DON'T EVEN GET A CHANCE to get a read on the
other players before you must make your decisions about
betting...

2. The other players can check-raise you, trap you, and get
a READ on YOU much more easily when you're in this position
at the table...

3. You are more likely to get bluffed, pushed around, out
drawn, and BEAT when you're in this position.

Let's examine WHY this table position is so terrible... and
what proven strategies you can use to play under the gun
PROPERLY, so that you don't lose any more money because of
it.

Here's an example...

Let's say you're under the gun at an 8-man table.

You get your cards and look down at an A-10 off-suit. You
decide to limp in, and you call the big blind (50).

The action goes around the table to the other players. The
man on the button (Don) decides to RAISE and make it 300
total to play.

You're not sure if this is a position raise, or if he really
does have a solid hand.

With all the chips already in the pot... plus the 50 you
already put in from your own stack, you decide to call with
your A-10.

There's one other caller, and both the big blind and small
blind players fold.

The flop comes out:

A-3-6

All different suits.

You've hit top pair. Congratulations.

What sucks is that you're FIRST to act, and you know that
Don is probably going to raise you no matter what you do...

But you don't have a read on Don or the other player. If Don
raises, you have to call, right? I mean, you hit top pair in
a raised pot.

So let's say you throw out a "feeler bet", just to see where
you're at.

Don calls, and the other guy folds.

Hmmmm... so now you wonder if Don is SLOW-PLAYING a big
hand or if he's just going to bluff at this.

The turn comes. It's an 8.

You check... and now Don bets 1000.

What now?

You're "pot committed" and you still have top-pair, so you
decide to call.

Now the river comes, you check again, and Don goes all-in
for 3000 more.

You've already got about 1500 in the pot. You're getting
over 2:1 on your money, and you're really not sure if Don's
bluffing or not. So you call...

And sure enough, Don throws over his Big Slick (A-K), and
rakes in the pot.

Ouch.

And the REASON you lost that big pot wasn't just the
cards... it was your POSITIONING.

If you're under the gun and you hit top pair on the flop,
you're just ASKING for trouble...

Because it's very difficult to get an accurate read on your
opponents when you're first to act.

I mean... let's just look at the many ways you can LOSE your
money when playing under the gun:

- If you call the blinds, but then the pot gets raised
before the flop and you fold. (You've lost your blinds.)

- If you call the blinds (and maybe a pre-flop raise) and
the flop is no help to you. You check, and there's a big bet
by another player and you are forced to fold.

- If you bet after the flop but get raised and are forced to
fold.

- If you have a good hand but someone else has a MONSTER and
slow-plays you. (It's much easier for someone to slow-play
you when you're first to act.)

- And more...

Now multiply all of these LOSSES by the number of times you
will be under the gun every single time you play cards.

The result is a TON of lost chips...

But I do have good news:

IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE THIS WAY.

You don't have to lose money every time you're first to act
before the flop...

You just have to know EXACTLY WHICH HANDS TO PLAY and HOW TO
PLAY THEM.

Let's take a look...

In our example above, the biggest mistake made was playing
A-10 in the first place.

Since under the gun positioning is so dangerous, you
shouldn't play anything except PREMIUM HANDS.

The rule is this: TIGHTEN UP YOUR GAME.

Only play these exact hands:

A-K, A-Q, K-Q, and pairs.

The only other hand you may want to play is suited
connectors, but that just depends on your style...
Personally, I don't like to play them here.

OK, now let's look at HOW to play the starting hands. There
are basically two groups:

Group 1: A-A, K-K, Q-Q, and A-K.

Group 2: A-Q, K-Q, and all other pairs.

Got it?

Now stick with me here, because this is VERY SIMPLE to
understand and will save you a lot of money at the Holdem
tables.

When you're under the gun, you should always CALL THE BLINDS
(LIMP-IN) when you get any hand in Group 2.

That means if you get any pair between 2's and Jacks... or
A-Q or K-Q... you should CALL.

Period.

The goal is to hit something good on the flop. If someone
makes a reasonable raise before the flop, you can feel
comfortable calling it with one of these hands.

I love playing small pocket pairs, because if you spike your
card on the flop (giving you a three of a kind or a "set"),
your opponents will usually never see it coming.

Now let's talk about Group 1 hands. The monsters:

A-A, K-K, Q-Q, A-K

The way you play these depends on whether the table you're
at is LOOSE or TIGHT.

Here's the rule:

If you're at a LOOSE table (where a lot of pre-flop raises
occur), you should LIMP-IN (call) with your monster.

If you're at a TIGHT table (where not many pre-flop raises
occur), you should RAISE the pot before the flop.

Here's why...

If the table is LOOSE, and you limp-in before the flop, the
pot will most likely get RAISED and the action will come
BACK to you.

This is good. It means more money in the pot for your
monster hand.

But if you make a big bet, there's a good chance you will
NOT get raised. Because you're first to act and everyone
will know you probably have a good hand.

If you limp-in and the pot gets raised, you should probably
make a RE-RAISE. Always try to get as much money in the pot
whenever possible with your monster hand...

But you DON'T want more than 1-2 callers, because that would
increase the odds of catching a bad beat.

Now if the table is TIGHT, you want to make a RAISE before
the flop. You don't want a bunch of players to all limp-in
and see a cheap flop...

Instead, you want to narrow down the field to 1-2 players
and get some money in the middle before the flop. Period.

Playing first position before the flop is just plain
tricky...

You're first to act pre-flop, in early position after the
flop, you can't get as good of a read on your opponents, and
you're at risk to getting slow-played.

So just remember, the next time you're under the gun, follow
these three simple rules:

1. Only play premium hands: pairs, AK, AQ, or KQ.

2. With AA, KK, QQ, and AK, you should RAISE at a tight
table and LIMP-IN at a loose table.

3. With the other starting hands you should just LIMP-IN.

Play by these easy rules and you'll stop losing money and
start MAKING money from this very dangerous position.

And you'll have a MAJOR ADVANTAGE over everyone else at the
table who DOESN'T know this strategy.

Which brings me to my next point...

You should always try to have MORE POKER KNOWLEDGE than the
other guys at the table... because if you do, you've
literally "stacked the deck" in your favor.

But if other guys you're up against know MORE about the game
than YOU, you're going to be in DEEP TROUBLE...

Because poker is a SKILL game... and it is very complex. If
you want to learn how to play and WIN, you've got to know
the strategies and techniques of the pros.

A Sneaky Way To Improve Your Positioning

The dealer position (known as the "button") is the best
position at the poker table.

The reason is because when you're on the button, you get to
act LAST after the flop... giving you the chance to see what
your opponents do first.

This lets you get a "read" on your opponents at the table...
and decide who has a strong hand, who has a weak hand, who's
bluffing, and so on.

OK, so that's common knowledge.

What's also common knowledge is the fact that LATE
POSITIONING is preferred over EARLY POSITIONING... because
once again, you get to see what your opponents do first
before it's your turn to bet, raise, call, or fold.

Of course, being on the button is BETTER than just plain
late positioning... because the button GUARANTEES that you
will be LAST TO ACT post-flop.

OK, now here's what is NOT common knowledge...

Once you understand positioning and its enormous
implications, you can begin "improving" your positioning and
setting yourself up for more pots each game.

The technique is called STEALING THE BUTTON.

It's simple... it's practical... and right when you're done
reading this newsletter you can immediately start using it.

Stealing the button is LEVERAGING your late positioning when
you're NOT on the button... but getting all the same
benefits as if you WERE on the button.

Remember, the dealer position is SO POWERFUL because it
means you're LAST to act post-flop.

Being SECOND TO LAST to act isn't nearly as good, especially
considering there's usually only three or four players to a
flop at an 8-man table.

So what you do is make a reasonable pre-flop RAISE when
you're in late positioning... and therefore force the player
on the button to fold.

Having done this, you'll be last to act after the flop...
the same as if you actually were on the button. (Hence the
name, "stealing the button").

OK, let's look at an example so you can see what I'm talking
about:

Let's say you're sitting two seats to the RIGHT of the
button at a 10-man table. The game is $1-2 no limit Holdem.

Two players limp-in... and you look down at your cards:

J-9 of clubs.

I call hands like these "semi-connectors"-- they're not
quite connected... but almost.

The great thing about semi-connectors is that they're a
"hidden hand". When they HIT (straight, flush, two pair...)
your opponents NEVER see it coming.

You decide to play your Jack-9 suited. Now remember, there
are two players BEHIND you that will act post-flop if they
both call the blinds.

So it's YOUR JOB to make sure they DON'T limp-in.

The solution is to crank up the pressure...

You make it $15 to play. Nothing crazy (after all, you don't
exactly have a monster). You simply want to force the two
players to your left to FOLD... which will happen most of
the time.

Of course, they won't always fold... because sometimes
they'll pick up a big hand. But odds arethey'll fold.

The RESULT, of course, is now YOU have the button.

Well, not the button exactly... but all the advantages that
it brings.

Sure enough, the two players to your left fold, and Josh--
who's in the big blind-- is the only caller.

The flop comes out:

10h-8d-Ks

No flush possibilities for you here, but BINGO, you've just
flopped an open-ended straight draw.

This is the type of flop you hoped for.

Now it's on Josh to act first. And this is where your
positioning is so important. Not only do you get to see what
Josh does first... but you also have the CONTROL in this
situation.

Since you made the pre-flop raise, Josh will likely check
the flop to you... giving you the opportunity to play
aggressively and take down this pot.

No matter what happens after this, you've set yourself up to
win this pot. Sometimes Josh will pick up a real hand and
come out firing... but usually not.

Sure enough in our example, Josh checks.

You throw out a $30 semi-bluff. This is a bet you should
make even WITHOUT the open-ender... because you made the
pre-flop raise.

Josh mucks it, and you rake the chips... leaving the table
wondering what you had.

That's how you "steal" the button. It's a simple, surefire
way to gain control at the table by improving your
positioning.

There are five main steps you need to know...

1. You need a playable hand.

If you're going to bluff, make it a "semi-bluff" by raising
with a hand that can hit... something like semi-connectors.

I personally don't like raising with 7-2 offsuit or crap
like that. It seems to me like an "ego raise" more than a
logical play.

Remember, the key is to gain that extra bit of control and
power by acting LAST after the flop.

2. Force out the player on the button (and possibly the
player to his right).

The whole point to stealing the button is to ACTUALLY STEAL
THE BUTTON. If you make a wussy raise that doesn't scare
anyone, you've failed.

If you're one seat to the right of the button, you want to
raise enough to force the player on the button out. If
you're TWO seats to the right, then you've got to force out
both players to your left.

One of the "secrets" to this process is to ALWAYS pay
attention to the pre-flop betting patterns of your opponents
on the left.

If you're sitting on the right of "Tight Tim" who only sees
flops when he's got pocket pairs, then you can steal the
button quite often.

On the other hand, if you're on the right of a LOOSE player,
you won't be able to steal the button nearly as much.

So pay attention.

3. After the flop, your opponents will usually check to you.

Notice if someone bets into you, beware. That's a red flag.
Usually players will check into you since you raised
pre-flop.

When players check into you that gives you the power to
either BET and try to steal the pot right there... OR... get
a free turn card by also checking.

While I normally recommend a bet, you can check to mix it up
once in awhile or in the case that you're getting
short-stacked.

4. Don't get pot-committed.

Remember, stealing the button is a simple technique that
improves your position and sets you up to have a BETTER
CHANCE at winning the hand.

Don't get stupid. Don't get stubborn and bet any amount in
hopes of bluffing out someone with a real hand.

Like I said, you need a playable hand to steal the button in
the first place.

Don't become pot-committed... Never bet so much that it's
PAINFUL to fold your cards after the flop.

5. Sometimes you don't need to raise to steal the button.

Often the blinds will be high enough where you figure simply
CALLING the big blind will get you the button (this is
especially true when you're to the right of a tight player).

Also, someone in front of you might raise the pot enough
that all you have to do is CALL THE RAISE and you'll get the
button.

OK, so that's the process...

Here are the two types of situations where you DO want to
steal the button...

DO STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN:

1. You sense weakness and want to steal the pot on a bluff
or hidden hand.

2. You have a good hand that you want to play post-flop.

On the other hand...

DO NOT STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN:

1. You have a poor hand and you sense someone else has a
strong hand.

2. You think someone to your left will call a raise no
matter what (that defeats the purpose).

The MOST IMPORTANT lesson you can get from all this is to
realize that winning poker depends on ALL THE LITTLE THINGS.

Stealing the button is just a little technique for setting
yourself up for better positioning... it's not a "game
changing" strategy that will double your poker profits or
anything.

But when you combine it with ALL THE OTHER LITTLE THINGS--
like establishing the right table image, throwing out feeler
bets, representing the flop at the right times, buying free
cards, picking up betting patterns, spotting tells, and
more-- then you will become a DYNAMIC and POWERFUL poker
player...

AND THEN your poker profits will double.

A lot of amateurs base their games on the "big hands" and
might get lucky once in awhile. But over time, the REAL
MONEY always goes to the GRINDERS... the guys who know how
to CONSISTENTLY take down pots.

It takes a lot of discipline, don't get me wrong.

But you can do it.

And I can SHORTCUT the amount of TIME you spend doing it by
showing you the STEP-BY-STEP PROCESSES for all those "little
things" that will transform you into a winning poker
player...

Not to mention... I'll show you the "big things": the
pro-level tactics that most players never EVER learn.

So if you're ready to take your skills to the next level,
visit here and download my easy-to-read eBook "No Limit
Holdem Secrets".

It's jam-packed with hundreds of strategies and tactics,
along with step-by-step examples and more. After reading it
many players have reported up to DOUBLING their profits...
instantly!

So have the discipline to INVEST in your skills-- rather
than LOSING that money at the tables because your
competitors know THESE secrets...

Just go to this webpage to get started:

http://www.NoLimitHoldemSecrets.com/tl/606IOFv

How To Represent The Flop

You're probably familiar with the term "represent the flop".
But do you know what it REALLY means?

And do you know how to PROPERLY represent the flop in order
to win more chips?

Most players think that REPRESENTING THE FLOP just means
betting and acting in a way as if the cards on the board
HELPED your hand...

Although this definition is ACCURATE, it's much too
simplistic to add any benefit to your game.

Representing the flop is in fact a very in-depth strategy
that is CRUCIAL to pro-level Texas Holdem poker...

First, let's look at WHY you should represent the flop:

The primary reason is to find out WHERE YOU'RE AT IN A HAND.

In other words, you want to learn how strong and how weak
the OTHER players at the table are. And the only way to do
this is through BETTING.

If you only check, check, call, call... then you will NEVER
become a good poker player. Never.

You've got to bet... and PRETEND that the community cards
helped you. If someone has a weak hand, they will be forced
to fold.

If someone has a mediocre hand, they will probably fold
too... because you're "representing" that you have something
good.

And if a player has a STRONG or VERY STRONG hand, they will
either call you or raise your bet.

So based on what everyone does, you can find out if you have
a chance at winning the pot, if you can bet other players
out, or if you should just fold. All information you
WOULDN'T have known otherwise.

Frequently representing the flop is an AGGRESSIVE style of
play. If you do it, you'll get a lot of action at the
table... especially after the flop.

For example, if you come out firing after the flop three out
of four hands, your opponents will begin calling your bets
and giving you action... because they KNOW you don't have a
great hand EVERY SINGLE TIME.

This comes in handy when you hit a MONSTER... like when you
flop a set or a flush or something. You don't have to worry
about everyone folding to you.

But even more important than getting lots of action,
representing the flop will help you STEAL a lot of pots over
the course of every card game.

And when YOU control the action and the betting, you'll find
it much easier to steal blinds and pots after the flop.

And trust me, THESE SMALL POTS ADD UP... FAST. If you only
go for the "big pots" in a poker game or tournament, you
won't last long. You've got to stick your neck out there and
go for the SMALLER POTS too...

OK, so representing the flop is a USEFUL and IMPORTANT TOOL
in no-limit Texas Holdem poker.

Now you've got to learn how to represent the flop the RIGHT
WAY...

I have FIVE BASIC RULES when it comes to representing the
flop... each rule gets progressively more complicated as
they go on.

But trust me, if you master these rules, you'll DEFINITELY
be on your way to higher "poker profits" and winnings.

OK, so here they are. These are my FIVE RULES:


RULE #1: When you represent the flop, don't act weak by only
betting the MINIMUM amount... BUT, don't bet so much that it
can burn you.

This is kind of like the "not too hot, not too cold"
principle.

You see... when you represent the flop, you've got to accept
the fact that you will likely NOT get the chips back that
you're betting.

I mean, obviously you want to WIN, don't get me wrong. BUT,
if someone has a great hand and you're representing the flop
WITHOUT a great hand, then there's a good chance you'll have
to fold soon.

So when you make a representation bet, do NOT bet so much
that you'll feel "pot committed".

On the other hand, don't bet too LITTLE. When you bet too
little, your opponents will see right through it. And it
won't be enough to scare the mediocre hands away.

For example... let's say you've got 9-8 suited and the flop
hits K-8-2 and you're first to act. You don't want to CHECK
because you know the guy after you will bet if you do.

So you REPRESENT THE FLOP by throwing out a bet...

If no one has the King, everyone will probably fold to your
bet. Even if someone DOES have the King, they may fold if
they don't have a decent kicker.

The key is you must make sure you BET ENOUGH. If you only
bet the minimum amount here... someone with A-4 might call
the bet, simply because the pot odds are in their favor. And
if the Ace hits on the turn, you're in trouble.

So always be sure to bet BIG ENOUGH to scare out the bad and
mediocre hands, but SMALL ENOUGH to not get in trouble if
you lose the chips.


RULE #2: Whenever possible, represent the flop when you have
OUTS.

This is a strategy most players don't quite "get" until
you've been playing poker for a LONG time.

Here's the thing:

If you represent the flop frequently every single time you
play Texas Holdem, you want the odds to be as much in your
favor as possible.

In the scenario above, for instance, representing the flop
with middle pair is a good move. Because you have some OUTS.
If another 8 hits on the turn or river, you're going to have
three-of-a-kind.

Obviously, hitting the eight is NOT likely (about 8.42%).
But there's STILL A CHANCE, and that's what is important.

Think about it:

Let's say you have just a 5% chance of hitting one of your
OUTS that would cause you to have the best hand at the
table.

Well, if you represent the flop fifty times and get a caller
TWENTY times, that means you'll MAKE your hand (on average)
one time out of these twenty. And when you DO make your
hand, you'll BUST your opponent and win a ton of chips.

Make sense?

This is kind of a MENTAL DISTINCTION that separates the pros
from the wannabes. Pros think about the LONG TERM ODDS of
playing. They don't base their decisions on situational
circumstances alone. They base them on WHAT WORKS OVER THE
LONG TERM.

That's how you develop a CONSISTENT winning career.

Because as you'll see in the next rule, you don't want to
CONTINUE to represent the flop if people stay in the hand
with you... unless you're confident that you can get them to
fold.

But usually, if someone calls or raises, you want to "let
up". Don't risk more chips when someone's got you beat.

So by representing the flop when you have OUTS you'll open
yourself up to the chance of MAKING YOUR HAND on the turn
(or sometimes river).


RULE #3: If you get raised, muck it.

All of these rules are general in nature... especially this
one. Obviously you don't want to ALWAYS FOLD every time
someone makes a raise.

BUT USUALLY, if you represent the flop with a bet and
someone comes back over the top of you, that opponent will
MOST LIKELY have a strong hand (maybe even a monster).

It's not logical to continue to bluff at the pot if you're
up against a surefire winning hand. You'll lose too many
chips that way.

That's the downside of being an aggressive player: You've
got to give up and cut your losses quite often. Discipline
yourself to do it.


RULE #4: Change gears with your betting amounts.

As we discussed earlier, one of the benefits to representing
the flop is that opponents will give you more ACTION during
the game because they'll "catch on" to your aggressive
style.

That does NOT mean, however, that you should become
PREDICTABLE. Being predictable is a recipe for disaster.

And that's why you've got to "change gears" and "mix it up"
with your betting.

For example... in our scenario where you made a bet with
your 9-8 suited (middle pair), let's say your bet was for 50
and then someone RAISED YOU to 200.

Your opponent probably has the King and a good kicker...
maybe even two pair. So you fold your middle pair with a
loss of only 50 chips.

NOW... when you fold, everyone at the table will SEE that
you just made a bet and then folded to a raise. This will
tell them that you were betting WITHOUT a good hand after
the flop.

Now... let's say a few hands later the flop comes out 5-A-Q
and you're second to act and you've got pocket deuces.

Your first opponent checks.

Now, although you know someone at the table probably has you
beat right now, you're not sure if someone has the Ace...
because there weren't any pre-flop raises.

So you REPRESENT THE FLOP (and the Ace) by betting.
(Remember, you also have outs here... if a two comes you'll
make trips.)

The key is to NOT BET 50 again, as you did with your eights
just a few hands ago. If you bet 50 again... or always bet
50 when you represent the flop... your opponents will know
exactly what you're doing and read right through you.

If Blake... who's sitting to your left... is only holding
the Queen, he's going to fold if he thinks you've got the
Ace.

But if he thinks you're just REPRESENTING the flop, he will
call your bet. And you DO NOT want that to happen (because
his Queens are better than your two's).

So instead of betting 50 again, you bet 150 this time. This
way you stay out of any PATTERNS that will give away your
hand... and increase the odds that everyone will put you on
the Ace and fold.


RULE #5: After you get better at representing the flop,
INTENTIONALLY STOP mixing up your bets in order to trap your
opponents.

This is a "tricky" play that works very well against
intermediate poker players.

Here's how it goes:

When you represent the flop and get "caught" in your
semi-bluff, use the event to YOUR ADVANTAGE to bust your
opponents.

Let's use the example from before with the 9-8 suited:

You got middle pair. You bet 50. Your opponent raised. And
then you folded.

Well, let's say you represented the flop AGAIN a few hands
later with a bet of 50. And then you got caught AGAIN when
your opponent raised you... and you were forced to fold.

After watching this happen two or three times, your
opponents will suddenly think they're geniuses and that
they've got you "figured out".

They'll think, "Woa, when he bets 50 on the flop he doesn't
have anything... and all I have to do is raise in order to
scare him away."

And of course, you're doing this ON PURPOSE in order to trap
your opponents.

Let's say a few hands later you get dealt pocket fours. The
flop comes: 4-7-J.

You've flopped trips. Now what?

Well, since you've built a reputation for betting on the
flop no matter what happens, you can feel safe betting and
you'll probably get action.

But what KIND of action are you looking for?

You want to get as many chips into this pot as possible. So
you take advantage of the "trap play" that you've created
and you bet 50... again.

This time, your opponents think they've got you figured out.
They think to themselves, "That flop didn't help him one
bit, he's just up to his old ways."

So your opponent RAISES you.

And that's where you GET REWARDED for the trap you set up.

Now you can either re-raise, or maybe call and hope that
your opponent tries buying the pot again after the turn
card...

It doesn't really matter. Because as long as there aren't
any draws out there, you can feel safe in knowing that
you'll win the hand and a nice pot either way.

It's amazing to me how easily players will fall into this
trap. (Especially with online poker.)

But remember... only use this trap play AFTER you have
mastered the first four rules for representing the flop. And
be sure that you aim the play at intermediate players, as
they'll fall for it the quickest.

There's one last component I want to mention here that
relates to our discussion of representing the flop... and
that's what you should do when you make a PRE-flop raise.

My technique is simple:

If I raised before the flop, I will come out betting AFTER
the flop... no matter what hits.

The reasoning is simple...

For starters, NOT betting after the flop is like waving a
red flag and TELLING your opponents that the flop didn't
help you.

If you represent the flop after your pre-flop raise, your
opponents won't know what to put you on. They'll be more
likely to fold.

And using this strategy over and over and over again pays
off in the long run. Because after awhile your opponents
will catch on...

And this benefits you in three ways:

1. You'll get more action when you catch a BIG hand.

2. Your opponents will fold more frequently to your pre-flop
raises because they know you're going to bet after the flop
as well. This gives you the opportunity to steal more
blinds.

3. Your opponents will be easier to read. When they have a
good hand they won't be afraid of you and they'll come back
over the top with a raise...

This lets you know that they've got you beat and that you
should just minimize your losses and fold.

Learning how to PROPERLY represent the flop is a crucial
aspect of Texas Holdem...

If you'd like to get MORE in-depth, "crusher" strategies
that you can use to win more chips... along with advanced
trap plays, bluffing techniques, and pro-level tactics...
just download my eBook here:

http://www.NoLimitHoldemSecrets.com/tl/605BzPZ

Special Tactics For Online Poker Tournaments

I've gotten a lot of questions from readers lately about
ONLINE TOURNAMENT STRATEGY... and how SIT AND GO SHARK fits
in exactly.

Read below to learn some killer tactics and new skills. If
you haven't gotten my SIT AND GO SHARK software yet, click
this link right now:

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP

- Roy


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Thank You - It Works!

Roy,

I had to write back and tell you my results.

First, my mistake was that I was playing 18 and 27 sit & go
tourneys. I moved to the 10 player ones and applied your
principles and had amazing results for a newcomer. I played
5 tournaments tonight and the results are as follows:

1st place
2nd place
4th place (I made a big mistake)
5th place (Just could not get any cards what so
ever in this one, snake bit)
1st place

Won money 3 out of the 5 times. Pretty spectacular!

I don't know how to steal blinds very well. I've only been
playing poker for 6 weeks. Can you send along a message on
how to steal blinds?

Many thanks, your strategy makes so much sense and it really
works.

S.M.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

Awesome! You've only been playing poker for SIX WEEKS and
you're already consistently finishing in the money at Sit
and Go's...

I like what I'm hearing.

As for stealing the blinds, here are some thoughts...

I've simplified Sit and Go strategy into seven key
components, which I call "Critical Success Factors."

Every situation in a Sit and Go can be handled by thinking
about these components:

Critical Success Factor #1: YOUR CARDS

Stealing the blinds is best done with starting hands that
have lots of OUTS... but aren't so good that you want to see
a flop.

Examples would be suited connectors, medium pocket pairs,
A-J, A-10, K-J, K-Q, and A-2 through A-9 suited.

These starting hands can be easily beat-- usually by higher
kickers. But they still have a good chance of winning if you
hit a favorable flop.

Anyway, the goal is to make a substantial pre-flop raise
that scares everyone out so that you can collect the blinds.

But if someone CALLS your raise, it's not the end of the
world because you can still hit a good flop and win the pot.
More importantly, you'll know you've scared out the hands
that are just SLIGHTLY better than yours.

For example, if you've got A-6 suited and you make a 5x big
blind pre-flop raise, someone with A-7 will probably fold...
thus increasing your chances of winning after the flop.

Critical Success Factor #2: POSITIONING

Your positioning at the table is CRUCIAL to successfully
stealing the blinds. You want to be in LATE position... that
way you can get a read on your opponents.

Steal the blinds when you sense WEAKNESS. This is
demonstrated when the players behind you limp-in to see a
cheap flop.

Critical Success Factor #3: TABLE MOMENTUM

If the table you're at is loose and aggressive, don't try to
steal the blinds. It won't work.

The best time to take a stab at it is when the momentum at
the table is TIGHT and there haven't been a lot of pre-flop
raises lately.

Critical Success Factor #4: BETTING PATTERNS

Watch to see who's in the small and big blind-- and WHAT
THEIR HABITS ARE in these positions. Some players will
defend their blinds to the death, while others will forfeit
them easily.

You obviously want to strike when the timid players are in
the blinds... because it decreases your odds of getting a
caller.

Critical Success Factor #5: POT ODDS

A common mistake made by amateurs is to commit TOO MANY
CHIPS to a pot when trying to steal the blinds.

Calculate your pot odds and be reasonable. Don't risk 800
chips just to win 50.

Critical Success Factor #6: NUMBER OF PLAYERS

The number of players in the game largely determines how
much you'll have to bet to win the blinds.

For Sit and Go's, I generally don't buy blinds until the
later stages of the game-- for three reasons:

1. That's when the blinds are higher.
2. That's when players tighten up.
3. That's when there are fewer players in.

Critical Success Factor #7: STACK SIZES

Stealing the blinds often requires a "one-two punch". That
means not only a pre-flop raise, but also a large post-flop
bet to "represent".

It's best to go after someone with a SMALLER CHIP STACK than
you. That way if you get caught with your "hand in the
cookie jar" there's a cap on your losses.

Plus, your bluffs will be more effective against someone
with fewer chips because even if they THINK you're
bluffing-- they can't afford to be wrong.

***

OK, so that's how you steal blinds.

This concept of "Critical Success Factors" is actually the
foundation of how I developed my SIT AND GO SHARK software.

As you play Sit and Go's, SHARK will sit beside you and give
CUSTOMIZED ADVICE-- based on each of the 7 factors-- all in
REAL-TIME!

To read more about this topic and how it can help you win
Sit and Go tournaments, click here:

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Hi Roy,

Your e-mails have helped me tons, my game has improved 10
fold over the space of a month. I need some advice though.

I play 10 player $5 (1500 chips) stt [single table
tournaments] most of the time and I can consistently place
2nd, no problem. But that first place is just out of reach.
I always get beat on the head to head.

By the time the game reaches this stage the blinds are
400/800, so not cheap. I play looser than normal, cause if I
didn't the blinds would beat me. What sort of hands should I
be playing at this point? I know it can be anybody's game
but I've just not managed that top spot yet.

Please help, I'm tired of coming second.

A.P.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

Head-to-head action is tough, because virtually all the
rules get tossed out the window.

Here are 5 tips for heads-up play that I think will help
you:

#1. YOU CAN PLAY ANY STARTING HAND. Because the blinds are
already so high, you must be willing to play ANYTHING before
the flop.

If you get an Ace, pair, or two face cards, you should
definitely raise the pot.

#2. BE CAREFUL OF DRAWS. Flush and straight draws can really
get you into trouble heads-up.

For example, if you've got an open-ended straight draw after
the flop and you put your opponent on a pair, be VERY
cautious.

Not only are his odds of winning better, but he'll probably
know as soon as you make your straight. So the "implied
odds" for you aren't very high.

This is why suited connectors are virtually worthless
heads-up-- even a favorable flop will usually only lead to a
DRAW, which is very dangerous.

#3. STOP THINKING ABOUT "WHO HAS THE BEST HAND". Instead,
start thinking about "who doesn't have the worst hand".

Does that make sense?

Most of the time, NEITHER of you will have anything good...
so winning the pot is more about who can scare the other
person out.

#4. BE WILLING TO GO ALL-IN. Large blinds means being ready
to RISK IT ALL.

As soon as you think you've got the best of it, push your
chips into the middle. Take some chances to win first place.

#5 PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. Heads-up skills take a lot of
time to develop. Instead of waiting until you're in the
final two of a 10-player Sit and Go to practice these
skills, go play some heads-up Sit and Go's instead.

Heads-up Sit and Go's will quickly give you a feel for how
often your opponent ACTUALLY catches a pair or good hand...
how often you should raise... and how to set traps.

Most pots heads-up are won before the river, with no one
showing their cards. This makes it difficult for a beginner
to really "know" how he's doing and how to improve.

AND THE BEST PART of heads-up Sit and Go's is that you can
use SIT AND GO SHARK while you play them!

SHARK supports these games-- as well as the heads-up stages
of regular Sit and Go's. That means you'll get my COACHING
and ADVICE every step of the way. This is a surefire way to
improve your chances of winning.

Just go here to download SHARK:

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Always coming up short

Hey Roy,

When I participate in many sit and go tourneys (on line), I
often find myself just short of the money round.

I tend to play tight until the looser players take
themselves out, but this often results in me sitting a
distant fourth or fifth in a ten man tourney... and almost
always short-stacked.

By playing tight, I think I am doing the correct thing, but
the looser players take the pots early and this always seems
to leave me fighting for my life trying to get to 3rd or 4th
place to cash in the tourney.

How can I change these odds? I want to start getting past
the last minute scramble to recover chips that I lost due to
my conservative play. Am I the only one who experiences this
short-stack syndrome??

Maybe the sit and go shark software will help me. What do
you think?

J.S.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

Don't worry, what you're going through is actually very
common.

It sounds to me like you're simply playing TOO TIGHT. If you
just stay out of the action and don't win any pots
throughout the game, you won't make it into the money-- it's
that simple.

Loosen up a bit. Try to steal blinds following the advice I
outlined earlier... and when you have a big hand, try to win
a HUGE pot.

Also, you said: "fighting for my life trying to get to 3rd
or 4th place to cash in the tourney".

Try to focus on placing FIRST in the tournament rather than
just in the money. When you make FIRST PLACE your goal,
making it in the money will come more easily.

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Roy,

Hey there. Thanks a lot for your newsletter, ive found it
extremely useful in improving my style of play. Im actually
playing a sit and go online right now, where im currently
1st out of the final 2 players. This brings us to my
question...

While i have found your tips to be very helpful in both sit
and gos and tournament play, i seem to often make 2nd rather
than 1st, or if i make 1st, its a hard battle to it.

Could you maybe give me some tips on heads-up play for when
you have the short stack and when you have the lead? I would
greatly appreciate it.

Thanks a lot for all the help,

O.R.
Stuttgart, Germany


>>> MY COMMENTS:

When you're the SHORT STACK heads-up, you've got to PUSH
ALL-IN relatively quickly.

I like doing this right away as the match begins, because it
develops a tempo and atmosphere that I'M IN CHARGE. You can
often mount a comeback FAST because your opponent isn't
ready for this aggressive style and he just folds his
blinds.

Since there's no time to waste, your all-in moves will often
be COMPLETE BLUFFS. That's OK. It's a chance you must take.

Now when you HAVE THE LEAD, your strategy should be to apply
CONSTANT PRESSURE. Never let your short-stacked opponent get
away with limping-in.

Double the blinds, represent the flop, and be aggressive.

Play your GOOD HANDS like you play every other hand, that
way your opponent is clueless to the cards you're holding...

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Your book and your emails are a great help to me playing on
line. I have improved my sit and go tournaments by reading
and following your advice. I have read several other books
before reading yours and I got more from yours than any of
the others.

I have spead the word to several of my friends that are now
getting your weekly newsletter. Now if you would either in
return email or in your newletter cover some of your
thoughts about larger tournaments. I seem to be able to get
into the top one third but not into the money it seems that
you have to take more chances in playing these than in sit
and go's am I right?

Any advice would be appreciated keep up the good work.

L.C.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

Thanks for the referrals, I appreciate it!

Yes, you are absolutely correct that you must take more
chances in multi-table tournaments (MTTs) than in Sit and
Go's.

For an MTT, you've got to win a lot of really big pots to
just make it to the money... and to win these pots, you've
got to take calculated risks.

It's often necessary to see more flops in an MTT, depending
on the quality of players and blinds structure.

If the blinds go up quickly, don't be afraid to sacrifice
some chips early on to see cheap flops in hopes of catching
"lucky" cards.

If you limp-in with something like J-9 suited and hit two
pair, your opponents will never see it coming... and it may
be just what you need to jump out to an early lead.

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Hi Gang -

Just wanted to let you know how much I've enjoyed SNG Shark.
Roy, it's like you're right there with me, with the same
great advice and homespun presentation style I enjoy so much
in your email newsletter.

Suddenly playing poker seems like a team sport, and a pack
of wolves can take out a lone sheep in the wilderness just
about every time. Thanks for helping me become a MUCH better
poker player... and you can quote me on that.

FYI, I sent several emails yesterday talking about how I
couldn't get SNG Shark to come up in my "home" XP profile
after installing it in my "work" one. I've solved that
"problem" - just had to go in and set the XP permissions
differently. Smooth sailing from here on. Thanks for
responding to my letters yesterday even tho they seemed a
little incoherent - that's the sign of a good support team,
and you guys are just that.

One happy camper,

R.J.R.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

Nice. It sounds like it's time for me to give my support
director a raise. ;-)

If you own SIT AND GO SHARK and have any questions or need
help with anything, just send us an email at:

support@sitandgoshark.com.

That's what we're here for.

Thanks for the kind comments... and I hope your success at
the poker tables continues.


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

I love your tight-aggressive squared approach to 10 man
sitngos. I have consistantly placed in the money with that
strtegy. How does that correspond to 6-man tables? The
dynamics of that seem a little different and it doesn't work
as well for me.

Thanks Roy

D.D.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

Great question. You're absolutely right that 6-player Sit
and Go's require an adjustment of strategy.

The Tight-Aggressive Squared approach basically means that
you're TIGHTER and MORE AGGRESSIVE than normal. The reason I
advocate this strategy in 10-player Sit and Go's is because
there are consistently a lot of BAD PLAYERS in these games.

And the more hands you enter, the more likely it is you'll
catch a bad beat against one of these fish-- who plays
something like 10-7 offsuit to a pre-flop raise.

In a 6-player Sit and Go, there are still probably a couple
bad players, but it's not as likely for one of them to be in
every hand with you-- like in a 10-player game.

And just as importantly, a 6-player table means the blinds
come around more frequently, so you'll need to loosen up
your starting hands.

In the beginning stages of a 6-player Sit and Go, I still
recommend being significantly TIGHTER and MORE AGGRESSIVE
with the pots you enter...

But after a player or two gets eliminated, don't focus on
the Tight-Aggressive Squared method as much-- it will have
served its purpose already. It's time to revert to a more
"normal" style of play.

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Hi Roy

i have a question regarding tournament strategy. i play a
lot of mtts, for the first hour im very strong. usually in
the top 20 but i find it gets more dificult when the blinds
increase. id say i was a tight player but i play quite
agressive and after reading a lot of books n pro tips it
says when u have a big stack u have to attack the table,
personally i tend to tighten up, and play my premium hands
and suited connectors. i find that when i have a big stack
and am in position im tempted to try n steal the blinds and
things but this is often where i go wrong. when i try n get
a cute it tends to burn me. what shud i do when i raise on
the button and get called? i often find they bet into me and
iv missed so have to fold, or if i think they think im on a
steal i re raise and that often get me in a lot of trouble
(sometimes works tho). if i fold iv prolly lost a decent %
of my stack as the blinds by this stage are large, but being
tight if i dont steal i will ante myself to death which is
no good. so do you have any pointers for late strategy in
mtts when the blinds are large?

would be very helpful

Thanks

C.S.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

It sounds like you're being TOO CONSERVATIVE and TOO
PREDICTABLE. Just because someone CALLS your raise doesn't
mean it's time to freak out.

It just means they have a good hand... and you'll need to
gauge whether you can buy the pot by betting MORE or just
cut your losses and try again later.

Do NOT just try to steal blind when you're on the button--
that's the kiss of death!

Most players see through a raise on the button and know it's
a position play... perhaps that's why you keep running into
callers.

Re-read the beginning of this newsletter about how to steal
blinds-- I think it will help you.


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Hey Roy,

Thanks for a great book and killer insight newsletters. It
definitely has improved my game a lot. I am getting pretty
good at sit and gos and i am usually finishing in the money.
I hope you can help me improve my game even more by
answering a couple of questions.

It is especially one hand I have HUGE problems with and that
is KQ. It seems like I am always up against AQ, AK, AA or
KK. How do you play this hand online depending on your
position?

Another problem I have is the multitable tournaments. Out of
664 people I usually finish 501 or 305 depending on how
aggressively i play. The problem is the middle part of the
tournament when most people have 2000 - 3000 chips and the
blinds are let's say 100 - 200. At that stage I guess you
are considered short stack but a lot of other people are
too. If you are going to have a go at the pot you easily put
half your stack in there and that is pretty much the end of
that tournament.

I try to employ some of the same strategy in multitable
tournaments as I do in sit and go tournaments when there are
10 people at the table. This might be the problem too
because with the sit and go tournaments i find myself often
short stacked with 5 or 6 people left, but I usually recover
at this point and finishes in the money. I guess recovering
from short stack at a 10 person table is harder than with 5
or 6 people.

Any thoughts Roy?

Thanks in advance

O.L.
Chicago, Illinois


>>> MY COMMENTS:

I'm going to address your questions in reverse order...

YES, it's much harder to recover from the short stack when
there are 10 players at the table versus when there are just
5 or 6. The reason is because not only is everyone GUNNING
for you, but the chances that SOMEONE at the table has a
premium hand is much higher.

It sounds like you're not building a large enough chip stack
early on... and that's costing you in the middle stages of
the tournament. You said: "If you are going to have a go at
the pot you easily put half your stack in"... YES,
absolutely.

You can actually easily end up with your WHOLE STACK in
there. Like I mentioned earlier, these are the chances you
MUST take in a multi-table tournament to be successful.

For MTTs, you should never be consistently placing in a
"range". You should be either IN THE MONEY or OUT OF THE
MONEY.

When you're OUT of the money, there should be no consistent
pattern to your losses... it may be last place, on the
bubble, whatever.

With no pattern, it means you TOOK A RISK but it didn't work
out. And that's how you SHOULD lose in tournaments. Fighting
for your life with 10x the big blind at a 10-man table is no
fun... so try to build your stack earlier.

Now for your question about how to play K-Q. At a 10-person
table, this hand can definitely get you into trouble because
of those premium hands you mentioned like A-A, A-K, A-Q, and
K-K.

You want to play K-Q not only based on positioning but also
based on your CHIP STACK and the BEHAVIOR OF YOUR OPPONENTS.

If you sense weakness in late positioning and you have some
chips to play with, throw out a pre-flop raise and see what
happens. Your goal is to find out if someone has one of
these deadly premium hands BEFORE THE FLOP-- that way you
still have time to escape.

K-Q is the type of hand to NOT SEE A FLOP and just steal
blinds with... You want to do so, however, when you have
enough chips to scare your opponents and not have to risk
everything.


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Dear Roy,

I have been playing poker for about 2 years now. Every
weekend my buddies and I have a 10-person Sit & Go for
fairly small buy-ins. I would have to say that I place in
the money or win everyweek.

The only amateur problem I am portraying is that I tend to
feel bad for my opponents since they are my friends. If you
could tell me how to get past this weakness it would be of
great satisfaction to me.

Your friend,
C.T.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

Let me get this straight:

You FEEL BAD because you keep beating your friends week
after week?!

I love it.

Here, I've got two ideas for you:

1. Grow up. Winning is a part of poker-- if you can't handle
embarrassing your friends every week, maybe you shouldn't
play with them anymore.

2. If you insist on playing with these friends who you
ALWAYS beat, next time bring a REALLY HOT GIRL with you to
the game...

Your buddies will be so distracted and grateful that you'll
win their money EVEN EASIER than before... and they won't
even care!

(LOL, I love my job.)


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Hey Roy,

I've been getting your newsletters for months now, and man!!
Great job with the sit-and-go strategies. They work almost
every time. My problem is coming into play in MTT's of
between 450-1000 ppl online. I have been consistently
getting top 100 finishes (which means in the small money),
but I just can't seem to break the big finishes. What the
heck am I doing wrong?

I'm staying as tight as I can with the large blinds and
idiots raising with nothing. How can I stay on my game and
win without going all-in on absolute crap cards? It seems
like that is the way these morons are winning these tourneys
after me.

Is there something of a strategy that can help me out?
Thanks for all your help and I hope you can help me with
this one.

J.P.
Calgary, Alberta


>>> MY COMMENTS:

I've pretty much covered your question earlier in this
newsletter, but I'd also point out to be aware of the STAKES
you're playing at.

A large MTT with a $5 buy-in will attract a lot of awful
players, and that might be part of your problem.

If you see "idiots" consistently winning these tournaments,
maybe you should raise the stakes (if your bankroll allows
it).

You've also brought up a great point about WATCHING THE
WINNERS OF TOURNAMENTS.

When I first started playing poker, this is precisely how I
developed a lot of my skills... by carefully STUDYING the
guys who made it all the way through a tournament.

I took notes on how often they entered pots, when they
raised, when they bluffed, and so on. If you've never done
this before, I highly recommend it. You'll be amazed at all
the lessons you learn.

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP


*** QUESTION FROM READER ***

Roy,

I started using Shark yesterday. Very NICE!!! I've played
over 10 $5 SnGs on Pokerroom.com and have finished out of
the $ only once. I like the occassional comedy you inserted
too, nice touch.

The advice mirrors your Tight/Aggressive Squared model,
which I had already adopted for online SnGs so I find myself
agreeing with nearly everything the Shark tells me.

It is nice to have you sitting over my shoulder making sure
I don't do anything I know I shouldn't. If I'm tempted, I
look at the screen and see you sitting at the WSOP table :)
Then I do the right thing and toss my cards :)

Thanks again, buddy.

S.S.


>>> MY COMMENTS:

WOW. 9 out of 10 Sit and Go's in the money... on the very
FIRST DAY! You are a stud, my friend.

I'm getting HUNDREDS of these types of success stories about
SIT AND GO SHARK every week...

If you're reading this right now and haven't taken the time
to download the software yet, do so NOW.

There's no better way to MASTER poker tournaments while
MAKING GREAT MONEY AT THE SAME TIME.

SHARK will give you step-by-step coaching and advice as you
play... based on the 7 Critical Success Factors I talked
about earlier.

It's quick to download and install, incredibly easy to use,
and 100% legal and safe at the online poker rooms.

Take advantage of this no-brainer opportunity right now--
and watch your online poker profits skyrocket as a result.

Click here to visit the official SIT AND GO SHARK website:

http://www.SitAndGoShark.com/tl/697UvNP


I'll talk to you again soon.

Why You Shouldn't Slow Play Big Hands

When you get a MONSTER hand, you should NOT slow play it.

Here's why:

"Slow playing" means that you don't bet very much, or bet
nothing at all, in hopes that your opponent makes a big bet
or tries to bluff.

For instance, if you got two Aces before the flop and only
called the big blind, you would be "slow playing" your Aces.

Or if you flopped a straight and just "checked", you would
be slow playing your straight.

Make sense?

The problem is, most amateurs will slow play their big
hands... trying to perform the famous check-raise
maneuver... or trying to "trap" their opponents...

But generally speaking, this is NOT a smart strategy... for
two reasons:

1. Because many poker players will see right through you...
and fold the hand as soon as you make your move.

2. Because you won't win as much money when you slow play
big hands versus betting them.

Let's talk about the first reason...

The fact is, slow playing big hands will NOT confuse your
opponents.

On the contrary, it will actually give them a SOLID READ on
you.

Why?

BECAUSE MOST PLAYERS SLOW PLAY MONSTER HANDS.

That's just the way it is.

You may think you're being SLY, but you're really just being
STUPID.

I think it's actually human INSTINCTS to slow play big
hands...

Think about it. When someone gets a big hand, what are they
thinking in their heads?

They SHOULD be thinking... "How can I get the most money
possible out of this pot?"

But what they are REALLY thinking is... "How can I make sure
everyone doesn't fold and this great hand doesn't go to
waste?"

It's the truth.

Especially since it will often take HUNDREDS of hands before
you catch a monster.

And that's the REAL reason why people slow play big hands...

Because they're SCARED TO DEATH that if they make a bet,
everyone will fold.

So the point is, it is NOT unique to slow play a monster...
in fact, it's what MOST card players do. Especially
amateurs.

Now let's look at the second reason why slow playing a big
hand is a bad idea... and that is:

YOU WON'T MAKE AS MUCH MONEY.

The fact is, when you hit a monster, you should bet it. It's
that simple.

Even if you REALLY ARE thinking to yourself, "How can I get
the most money out of this pot?", the answer is to bet it.

Not slow play it.

You'll win more chips and make more money by betting your
big hands... especially when you look at it over a long term
perspective.

Let me show you three reasons why:

1. Usually, one of your opponents will have SOMETHING...
whether it's a bottom pair, wired pair, straight draw...
whatever.

This means that you'll usually get one or more callers for
your monster hand... which is "sure money" going into the
pot that you're about to win...

2. When you slow play big hands, you're opening yourself up
for BAD BEATS. You shouldn't give your opponents the
opportunity to see free cards.

When you let them see free cards, you're just increasing the
odds that someone catches a lucky draw... or the one
"miracle" card that can bust your hand.

Betting your big hand, instead of letting your opponent get
free cards, will narrow down your chances of a bad beat.

3. Your opponents won't see it coming.

Since most players slow play monsters, your opponents will
often put you on a BLUFF when you bet your big hand.

And if they think you're bluffing, they'll try to come back
over the top of you with a raise.

This, of course, gives you yet ANOTHER way to make more
money from your hand...

Now... let me talk about the EXCEPTION to this rule. And
that is when you get a monster that is SO UNBELIEVABLE...
AND you sense complete weakness at the table.

The most common example of this is 4-of-a-kind.

For instance...

Let's say the flop came out 8,8,2 and you've got pocket 8's.
The other two players check to you.

In this case, it will be smart to just check your big hand,
rather than betting.

BUT, you're not really "slow playing" it.

What you're ACTUALLY doing is just letting your opponents
"catch up" to you.

Since you know the 8's couldn't have helped either of your
opponents, you want to make sure a turn card comes out...
and maybe even a river card... in hopes that someone catches
SOMETHING.

If the turn card is a face card, that's good news for you.
Because it means that someone might have made top pair and
will be willing to give you some action in the hand.

But besides that, you should NOT slow play your big hands.

Now let's see a real-life instance where this strategy
helped me make more money at the poker table.

Just the other night I was at the riverboat and got dealt AQ.
My positioning wasn't good, but it was the first decent hand
I'd seen in awhile, so I raised the pot to 1,500 in chips.

Only one player called me... the man on the button. This guy
(we'll call him "Mike") is a very good card player. He goes
to the casinos every single night... 7 days a week...
grinding it out and making his living.

He's one of the only players at this table that I generally
avoid going heads-up with, actually.

So anyway... the flop comes out, and it's:

Q-Q-3

I've flopped a set with an Ace kicker.

I'm first to act. So what do I do?

Most players would slow play... but not me. I come out
firing.

I hesitate for like two seconds and then push in 4,000 in
chips.

Mike is thinking there is no possible way I'd bet trips like
that... so he's probably putting me on a high wired pair
(but not Queens).

Plus, he might think I'm just representing my pre-flop raise
with this bet...

So instead of folding, Mike decides to represent the Queens
out there... and act as if HE has the trip queens.

"Make it 10,000", he says aggressively.

Of course, now I've got Mike EXACTLY where I want him...

I call his bet.

The turn card comes... it's a 10.

I check... because I know Mike is going to make a big move
on me.

"Make it 10,000", he says again.

And I call again.

It turns out Mike is sitting on K-10... which means he's got
a pair. This will give him even MORE confidence to try to
buy this pot.

Now that I've called his bets, however, he's probably
thinking I have Kings or Aces. Which means the only way he
can win this pot is to scare me away.

The river hits... and it's a 3. Which gives me the full
house.

I check again, and Mike goes ALL IN with his huge chip
stack... thinking he can bully me out of the hand.

I call... and I take down a MASSIVE pot from the seasoned
rounder.

And it all started because I DIDN'T slow play my trips. Mike
didn't put me on the three Queens and was willing to push
his entire stack into the middle to try to win that pot.

Of course... that won't happen every time you get a big
hand. And trying to confuse your opponent is definitely NOT
the only reason to not slow play your big hands.

The reality is, when you bet your big hands you'll
CONSISTENTLY win more pots and make MORE MONEY playing
poker...