My Thoughts On Slow Playing

When you get a MONSTER hand, you should NOT slow play it.

Here's why:

"Slow playing" means that you don't bet very much, or bet
nothing at all, in hopes that your opponent makes a big bet
or tries to bluff.

For instance, if you got two Aces before the flop and only
called the big blind, you would be "slow playing" your Aces.

Or if you flopped a straight and just "checked", you would
be slow playing your straight.

Make sense?

The problem is, most amateurs will slow play their big
hands... trying to perform the famous check-raise
maneuver... or trying to "trap" their opponents...

But generally speaking, this is NOT a smart strategy... for
two reasons:

1. Because many poker players will see right through you...
and fold the hand as soon as you make your move.

2. Because you won't win as much money when you slow play
big hands versus betting them.

Let's talk about the first reason...

The fact is, slow playing big hands will NOT confuse your
opponents.

On the contrary, it will actually give them a SOLID READ on
you.

Why?

BECAUSE MOST PLAYERS SLOW PLAY MONSTER HANDS.

That's just the way it is.

You may think you're being SLY, but you're really just being
STUPID.

I think it's actually human INSTINCTS to slow play big
hands...

Think about it. When someone gets a big hand, what are they
thinking in their heads?

They SHOULD be thinking... "How can I get the most money
possible out of this pot?"

But what they are REALLY thinking is... "How can I make sure
everyone doesn't fold and this great hand doesn't go to
waste?"

It's the truth.

Especially since it will often take HUNDREDS of hands before
you catch a monster.

And that's the REAL reason why people slow play big hands...

Because they're SCARED TO DEATH that if they make a bet,
everyone will fold.

So the point is, it is NOT unique to slow play a monster...
in fact, it's what MOST card players do. Especially
amateurs.

Now let's look at the second reason why slow playing a big
hand is a bad idea... and that is:

YOU WON'T MAKE AS MUCH MONEY.

The fact is, when you hit a monster, you should bet it. It's
that simple.

Even if you REALLY ARE thinking to yourself, "How can I get
the most money out of this pot?", the answer is to bet it.

Not slow play it.

You'll win more chips and make more money by betting your
big hands... especially when you look at it over a long term
perspective.

Let me show you three reasons why:

1. Usually, one of your opponents will have SOMETHING...
whether it's a bottom pair, wired pair, straight draw...
whatever.

This means that you'll usually get one or more callers for
your monster hand... which is "sure money" going into the
pot that you're about to win...

2. When you slow play big hands, you're opening yourself up
for BAD BEATS. You shouldn't give your opponents the
opportunity to see free cards.

When you let them see free cards, you're just increasing the
odds that someone catches a lucky draw... or the one
"miracle" card that can bust your hand.

Betting your big hand, instead of letting your opponent get
free cards, will narrow down your chances of a bad beat.

3. Your opponents won't see it coming.

Since most players slow play monsters, your opponents will
often put you on a BLUFF when you bet your big hand.

And if they think you're bluffing, they'll try to come back
over the top of you with a raise.

This, of course, gives you yet ANOTHER way to make more
money from your hand...

Now... let me talk about the EXCEPTION to this rule. And
that is when you get a monster that is SO UNBELIEVABLE...
AND you sense complete weakness at the table.

The most common example of this is 4-of-a-kind.

For instance...

Let's say the flop came out 8,8,2 and you've got pocket 8's.
The other two players check to you.

In this case, it will be smart to just check your big hand,
rather than betting.

BUT, you're not really "slow playing" it.

What you're ACTUALLY doing is just letting your opponents
"catch up" to you.

Since you know the 8's couldn't have helped either of your
opponents, you want to make sure a turn card comes out...
and maybe even a river card... in hopes that someone catches
SOMETHING.

If the turn card is a face card, that's good news for you.
Because it means that someone might have made top pair and
will be willing to give you some action in the hand.

But besides that, you should NOT slow play your big hands.

Now let's see a real-life instance where this strategy
helped me make more money at the poker table.

Just the other night I was at the riverboat and got dealt AQ.
My positioning wasn't good, but it was the first decent hand
I'd seen in awhile, so I raised the pot to 1,500 in chips.

Only one player called me... the man on the button. This guy
(we'll call him "Mike") is a very good card player. He goes
to the casinos every single night... 7 days a week...
grinding it out and making his living.

He's one of the only players at this table that I generally
avoid going heads-up with, actually.

So anyway... the flop comes out, and it's:

Q-Q-3

I've flopped a set with an Ace kicker.

I'm first to act. So what do I do?

Most players would slow play... but not me. I come out
firing.

I hesitate for like two seconds and then push in 4,000 in
chips.

Mike is thinking there is no possible way I'd bet trips like
that... so he's probably putting me on a high wired pair
(but not Queens).

Plus, he might think I'm just representing my pre-flop raise
with this bet...

So instead of folding, Mike decides to represent the Queens
out there... and act as if HE has the trip queens.

"Make it 10,000", he says aggressively.

Of course, now I've got Mike EXACTLY where I want him...

I call his bet.

The turn card comes... it's a 10.

I check... because I know Mike is going to make a big move
on me.

"Make it 10,000", he says again.

And I call again.

It turns out Mike is sitting on K-10... which means he's got
a pair. This will give him even MORE confidence to try to
buy this pot.

Now that I've called his bets, however, he's probably
thinking I have Kings or Aces. Which means the only way he
can win this pot is to scare me away.

The river hits... and it's a 3. Which gives me the full
house.

I check again, and Mike goes ALL IN with his huge chip
stack... thinking he can bully me out of the hand.

I call... and I take down a MASSIVE pot from the seasoned
rounder.

And it all started because I DIDN'T slow play my trips. Mike
didn't put me on the three Queens and was willing to push
his entire stack into the middle to try to win that pot.

Of course... that won't happen every time you get a big
hand. And trying to confuse your opponent is definitely NOT
the only reason to not slow play your big hands.

The reality is, when you bet your big hands you'll
CONSISTENTLY win more pots and make MORE MONEY playing
poker...

What Makes No Limit Poker So Exciting

I have a new idea that I wanted to share with you.

I call it the "All-In Factor".

No limit Texas Holdem poker is the game of choice for most
card players these days... I know I certainly prefer it. But
a lot of my opponents don't know how to truly USE and
LEVERAGE the "All-In Factor" to their advantage.

What I mean is, going "all-in" is SO POWERFUL and SO
IMPORTANT, yet most players don't know the right times to
make this bold move. They just wait for the "nuts" to come
along and THEN they go all-in. Make sense?

I'd like to share with you some of my thoughts on how, when,
where, and why to go "all-in" against your opponents.

Not only is this move what makes no limit poker so EXCITING,
but this is also the KEY DISTINCTION between limit and no
limit Holdem... and it's why no limit requires more of a
"ballsy" personality.

Contrary to popular belief, the All-In Factor actually adds
MORE SKILL to the game of poker... just not in the sense of
math or odds.

Instead, "all-in" requires the skills of PSYCHOLOGY,
intimidation, and bluffing.

When you learn the right times to go all-in, you'll have a
consistent EDGE over your opponents... and THAT, my friend,
will help you beat the game over and over and over (even
when you don't have good cards).

OK, let's get started.

One of the core principles of poker is that it's always much
easier to BET than it is to CALL.

I mean think about it: You can make a BET without actually
having good cards-- you might be on a bluff... you might be
"representing" the board... you might just have middle
pair... and so on.

But to CALL a bet, you want to have a strong hand. Because
now your OPPONENT is representing good cards. If you don't
have a read on him, then it's going to be harder to CALL his
bet.

I look at it this way: It's much easier to SHOOT a bullet
than to DODGE a bullet (and I'm not talking about Aces).

That's one of the reasons why I like to go with an
aggressive style of play. I win a lot more pots even when I
DON'T have good cards... because my opponents are forced to
fold to me.

Anyway... this idea that it's easier to BET than CALL
couldn't be more true than with ALL-IN BETS.

It is TEN TIMES EASIER to push all your money in the middle
than it is to CALL an all-in bet.

When your opponent goes all-in, he has put you to a decision
for all your chips. Your life in the game/tournament could
be OVER with just this one pot.

In order to call, you must be CONFIDENT that you have him
beat.

But in order to make an all-in bet yourself, you just need
to be confident that your opponent will FOLD... or that you
have him beat.

This gives the person MAKING the all-in bet the advantage
every time.

And that leads to our second main principle, which is this:

If you don't risk chips, you can't win chips.

Period.

Now obviously, your strategy should be to MINIMIZE your risk
and MAXIMIZE your winnings...

But no limit Texas Holdem gives you the unique opportunity
to win big pots with all-in bets, even when you don't have
the best hand.

The All-In Factor is what allows you to BULLY your opponents
and take a DOMINATING position.

One of the best times to go all-in is to STEAL a pot from
your opponent... but when you steal pots, you must be sure
the hand meets these conditions:

1. You want OUTS. If your opponent calls, there should be
cards left in the deck that can help you still win the hand.
Even if the odds are not good, you want outs.

2. You must have a solid read on your opponent. If you're
stealing a pot, you must be confident the other player is
going to fold.

3. You want good positioning. This isn't as important as the
first two conditions, but positioning is what usually allows
you to get a read on your opponents.

Let's look at an example...

Say you've get dealt 8-7 of diamonds while you're on the
button. That means you've got a "hidden hand" with the best
positioning.

Three players limp-in and the action is to you.

You raise the pot to $15... a nice raise in this $1-2 no
limit cash game.

The small and big blinds fold.

But then Brian, who's under the gun, comes back over the top
of you and raises it to $30.

Ouch. You forgot that Brian is a smart player who doesn't
play anything but premium hands while under the gun. He
limped-in, which was the "red flag" that he had something
good.

Anyway, the action goes around and Jared-- the guy to your
right-- ALSO calls the bet of $30.

So it's $15 more to call... and the pot size is already up
to $80. With your positioning and the pot odds, you decide
to call and see a flop.

You don't like the way this hand is going so far, because
now you have $30 invested with just suited-connectors... and
you're putting Brian on a hand like A-K, A-Q, or maybe
something like pocket Jacks. If he had anything better he
would have been more aggressive than simply raising $15.

OK, so the flop comes out:

3s-4s-5s

Wow. Interesting flop. 3-4-5 of spades.

Brian bets $10 into the pot. You know this flop didn't help
him one bit... the only reason he's making this small bet is
because he raised before the flop. You can tell right away
that he doesn't like what he sees on the board.

Jared mucks his hand.

So now the action is to you. There's $90 in the middle.
You've got about $350 more in chips, and Brian has about
$225.

THIS is one of those times to consider going all-in.

You don't have a single spade... and that's not good. But
you do have the gutshot straight draw. There's a 16.47%
chance that a six will hit on the turn or river.

But that's not why you're going all-in. You want to make a
move at this pot because you've VERY confident that Brian is
going to fold.

For all Brian knows, you could have two spades, or the
straight, or a straight draw and flush draw, or even a
straight flush.

The truth is, Brian probably has the best hand right now
with two overcards... he may even have a high spade. But
that won't be enough for him to justify calling an ALL-IN
bet.

Brian's smart... there are simply too many cards out there
that can beat him. So you go all-in and he mucks it...
making you $90 richer.

When stealing a pot like this, be sure it's worth the risk.
The fewer players in the hand, and the more money in the
middle, the better the payoff is to you.

The key is knowing that your opponent is going to fold. If
you're up against someone who's too smart (or too dumb) to
muck it, then you're in trouble.

That's where the OUTS come in.

Let's say Brian looked at you and said, "Well, I know you've
got the flush, but I can't lay this down." And then he
called... flipping over an Ace of hearts and an Ace of
clubs.

Now you're in trouble, of course. But at least you left
yourself some outs... you've got a 16.47% chance of hitting
that six. And you've also got the slight chance that two
more spades come out or the board makes a straight (which
would be a split pot).

And last but not least... if everything goes wrong and you
lose this pot to Brian, you've still got $125 in chips.

Which brings me to my next point... and that is the SIZE OF
YOUR STACK.

Stack size is an extremely important component of the All-In
Factor. Here's what I mean:

First of all, if you're going to play a hand aggressively,
you always know that it COULD lead to all-in bets. That's
why you want to go after players with SHORTER stacks than
you.

If the worst case scenario occurs and you lose an all-in
match, at least you're not out of the game.

This has a secondary benefit, too...

If a player has fewer chips, he'll be easier to "push
around" and "bully". That lowers your risk further.

Of course... this gets more complicated.

You want to be very careful about stealing pots or making
stone cold bluffs against anyone who's "short-stacked".

If you've got $400 in chips and your opponent has $40 in
chips, you wouldn't make the same kind of bluff as you did
against Brian in the example.

A player who's short-stacked is ITCHING to move all his
chips in as soon as he picks up ANY type of hand. So you
can't bluff him out of the pot.

What you CAN do, however, is put the short-stack all-in
BEFORE THE FLOP when you have something decent... therefore
putting him to a decision for all his chips. If he calls, it
will probably be a loose call, and you have a chance at
winning a good pot.

If he folds, you win the blinds. And if he wins, you only
lose 1/10 of your stack.

Let's look at another quick example. Say Brian has $40 in
chips and you've got $400 in chips. You're third to act
before the flop, which isn't very good positioning. Brian's
second to act.

Brian goes all-in with his short stack. You look down to see
pocket Kings. You know you've got him beat. What should you
do?

The answer is NOT to call. Instead, you should ALSO go
all-in. With Kings, you don't want multiple players in the
hand seeing a flop... You just want to take Brian's $40 and
the blinds that are already in there.

You must make a move to scare out the remaining three
players behind you... otherwise there's a good chance you'll
get run down.

Let's say you just CALL, and then Drew also calls with an
A-8 suited.

The flop hits: A-4-J

And now you lost the hand... because Drew caught his top
pair.

But if you had moved all-in before the flop, Drew and
everyone else would have folded. Then it'd just be you and
Brian... as Brian flips over his losing pocket 8's.

That brings up another good point:

Players will make LOOSE CALLS to all-in bets when there's a
chance at eliminating someone from the table.

This is most relevant in tournament play.

You see, eliminating someone from the table means each
player is CLOSER to finishing in the money...

So it's in everyone's BEST INTERESTS to "knock off" the
short stack.

This is something you can use to your advantage when YOU are
playing short-stacked. If you pick up a monster hand, you
can be assured that you'll get lots of action with it... and
if it holds, you might even TRIPLE up (or better).

But that's also a reason why you cannot make an all-in BLUFF
when you're short-stacked. You can't bluff anyone out of a
pot because you don't have enough chips to scare them off.

"All-in" is only intimidating when you have lots of chips.
When you DON'T have lots of chips, your opponents will be
HAPPY you're all-in... because it means you're that much
closer to getting eliminated.

Even if you're NOT short-stacked, this principle is true
when facing players who have a LOT more chips than you.
Let's say you're 4th in chips at a 6-man table... with about
$80 in front of you.

Don't try to bluff at a pot with an "all-in" against the
chip leader, who's got $400. He can afford to make a call
with just a mediocre hand or a draw.

For him, $80 won't hurt his stack much... and the chance of
knocking you out is worth the risk.

So when WOULD BE the right time to go all-in when you're
short-stacked?

The obvious answer is "when you have a hand". But as you
know, you won't always get good cards.

As a general rule, I "make my stand" when I'm getting down
to about ten times the big blind. Lower than that will be
too short-stacked to make bluffs that will scare anyone out
of the pot.

With more than 10x the big blind, I'm usually able to steal
some blinds and get myself back in the game.

If I run into a monster, or get outdrawn, oh well. There's
nothing I can do.

But usually, since I make my stand based on chip stacks,
positioning, and sensing weakness, I WON'T get any callers
to my bold "all-in" and I'll rake in the pot.

This is also one of my fundamental techniques for not
getting "blinded to death"... and for staying in a game even
when I'm NOT catching good cards.

OK, let's review:

The "All-In Factor" is a key technique for no limit Texas
Holdem. Not only does it separate limit from no-limit... but
it also separates the "men from the boys", so to speak.

When you go all-in WITHOUT a monster, be sure you have OUTS.
These will come in handy over the long term.

Don't bluff against someone who's got way more chips than
you... and don't bluff when you're the short-stack at the
table.

If you're getting low on chips, make your all-in move when
you're getting down to about 10x the big blind.

If the short-stacked player at the table goes all-in and
you've got a big hand, don't CALL. Be sure YOU go all-in
too... that way you scare the other players out and decrease
the chances of getting run down.

Remember... it's always easier to BET than CALL, and you can
never win what you don't put into the middle.

The All-In Factor is a strategic maneuver that you can use
to "own" your opponents and win more money at the poker
tables.

How To Get A Read On Your Opponents

The BIGGEST MISTAKE you can make while playing no limit
Texas Holdem is to focus too much on your cards...

If you're playing draw, stud, limit, or any other form of
poker, then it's more important to concentrate on
MATHEMATICAL ODDS and PROBABILITIES.

But no limit Holdem is different.

You can be a math WIZARD and know the odds of every possible
scenario in the deck... but it will only get you so far.

Hell, you can know how to COUNT CARDS... but I'll still
knock your socks off and take your rent money if you face me
heads-up.

Because no limit Holdem is a game of PSYCHOLOGY.

To win, you must learn how to play the PLAYERS, not just the
CARDS.

The reason no limit Holdem is different from other types of
poker is because it's possible to bluff HUGE pots and go
ALL-IN...

And the only thing that separates YOU from your OPPONENT is
just two down-faced cards that are dealt at the beginning of
each hand.

That's it. Just two cards.

The reality is this...

No limit Holdem is PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE, and if you want to
WIN, you've got to learn how to get INSIDE THE HEADS of your
opponents.

You've got to know them better than they know themselves...
and predict their every move.

But how?

There are a lot of strategies and techniques around
identifying "poker tells".

A poker TELL is a habit or mannerism of a player that is a
"giveaway" to the strength or weakness of their hand.

Like a twitch of the nose... a crack in the voice... a shaky
leg... or a rapid pulse...

Tells like these are IMPORTANT.

And you must learn how to spot and take advantage of them.

But there's one tell that's MUCH, MUCH MORE IMPORTANT... and
it has NOTHING to do with body language, voice, or
mannerisms.

In fact, this tell is technically not even classified as a
"tell".

But it WILL give you a read on your opponents.

What am I talking about?

BETTING.

Stay with me here.

BETTING is the KEY to getting a read on your opponents...

It is through BETTING that you find out the strength or
weakness of another player's hand, which is how you WIN in
Texas Holdem...

BETTING is how you get inside your the heads of your
opponents. Especially the ones you've never met or played
against before.

Now, I'm not talking about just ANY kind of betting...

I'm talking about the bets YOUR OPPONENTS make IN RESPONSE
TO THE CONDITIONS AT THE TABLE.

Just ask yourself: How do the pros quickly and consistently
win at ONLINE POKER... where you can't even SEE your
opponents?

That's right... the answer is BETTING.

You've got to watch and STUDY what each player does in
response to the action...

This is true no matter WHERE you play Holdem... whether it's
online, at home, in a casino, or in a tournament.

Now notice how I said IN RESPONSE to the action...

This is the key.

Because you can't get a good read on an opponent every time
they make a bet.

The best time to get a read is when they have to REACT TO
ACTION AT THE TABLE...

When they have to make a DECISION.

Because this is the time when they're NOT in control...

For example, let's say the action is to Don to call a $10
bet...

Does he fold, call, or raise?

Does he hesitate, or immediately make a decision?

If he makes a raise, he's representing a good hand, and
takes control of the action...

If he hesitates and then calls, there's a good chance his
hand is weak...

If he immediately calls, he may have something or be on a
draw...

You get the point.

You can get a read on your opponent when your opponent has
to REACT TO ACTION.

Unfortunately, your opponent won't always HAVE TO react to
action at the table.

In fact, your opponent will often take CONTROL of the action
and force YOU to make a decision.

Which means everyone will get the chance to get a read on
YOU...

And that is NOT what you want.

So how do you counter this?

How do take control of the action AND force your opponent to
a decision?

The answer is this:

FEELER BETS.

Feeler bets are bets made in order to see where you're at in
the hand.

They're named "FEELER bets" because they allow you to feel
out the strength or weakness of your opponents...

And they're a CRUCIAL part of becoming good at Texas Holdem
poker.

Let me demonstrate with an example...

Let's say you're fifth to act in a $1-2 no limit game at a
10-man table.

You've got over $200 in your stack.

You look down at pocket nines.

You're not too excited about your position right here, but
you've been on fire the whole game. The action is on to you
to call the blinds.

This is where you make a FEELER BET... which would be a
pre-flop raise in this situation.

"$10 to play", you say as you splash the pot with ten white
$1 chips.

This feeler bet accomplishes four things:

1. You get to find out who's strong and who's not...

2. You get control of the action at the table...

3. You're not allowing your opponents to get a good read on
you...

4. You're getting a read on your opponents by forcing them
to make a decision...

Okay... so let's say the action around the table continues
as Nathan and Greg-- who are both sitting left of you-- call
your raise.

The next few players muck their hands, and then Cindy, who
is just to your right, jumps into the action and calls.

You really didn't want this much action with your pocket
nines.

But hey, you've built up a nice pot, and you might get lucky
and spike on the flop.

Plus, everyone simply called your pre-flop raise (no one
came back over the top), which is a good sign.

The flop hits:

K-7-4

Not too great of a flop for you, but not that bad either.

You would feel a lot better off without that King on the
board.

Cindy, first to act right now, taps her hand on the table
and checks to you.

This isn't surprising, since you took control before the
flop.

So the action is to you...

This is where most poker players would CHECK.

Big mistake.

Right now, you have absolutely NO WAY of knowing who has the
best hand at the table.

And that is PRECISELY why you must make a feeler bet...

Think about it:

If you CHECK, you're portraying weakness to your three
opponents... letting them know that the flop didn't help
you.

Which gives one of THEM the opportunity to make a bet or try
to buy the pot.

And you still won't know where you stand.

So instead of checking, you throw out a small FEELER BET
that isn't going to get you into much trouble.

This isn't a bluff.

This is just a bet to find out who has a real hand and who
doesn't. And it keeps you in a position to WIN the pot.

"Thirteen dollars", you say as you push in a stack of chips.

Remember, this FEELER BET isn't going to get you into
trouble. You're not going broke if you lose this pot...
because you've got over $200 in your stack of chips.

And this is the ONLY WAY you've got a chance at winning this
hand.

Nathan and Greg both immediately muck their cards.

The action goes to Cindy now, who thinks for a few moments
while peeking at her hand a second time. Finally, she calls
your bet.

Your feeler bet worked well. You got rid of two players...
and you've got a read on Cindy now.

Because she called, you think she might be on a draw or
might have the King without a decent kicker.

The turn card is an Ace.

This is GREAT for you.

It's great because you made that feeler bet...

Because you're confident that Cindy is NOT holding an Ace.
If she had Big Slick, she would've made a pre-flop raise,
rather than simply limping-in and calling your feeler bets.

She checks again.

This is where you can take the pot down with a real bet.

"Forty dollars", you say as you push in a stack of chips.

Cindy folds, of course, and you rake in a nice pot... all of
which was SET UP through your two feeler bets.

If you hadn't made your feeler bets, there's no way you
would've won the hand.

Because you wouldn't have scared out the other players, you
wouldn't have created good positioning for yourself, and you
wouldn't have had a read on Cindy.

This is why I make feeler bets all the time... and why you
should too.

I throw out "feelers" with top pair, second pair, bottom
pair, or draws.

These bets are the only way I know whether I have the best
hand at any particular point in time...

Sure, I get re-raised often. And that's when I fold the hand
and lose the bet I just put in.

BUT THAT'S OKAY.

Because I found out EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED TO KNOW.

If you get re-raised after a feeler bet, then you know you
probably don't have the best hand at the table... so muck
it.

Losing the few dollars you made with your feeler bet is
perfectly fine...

Because it's MUCH BETTER than just CALLING bet after bet
without getting a read on your opponents... and then losing
after all the cards get flipped over.

That's a SUCKER way to lose a pot.

And you'll go broke that way.

Plus, my feeler bets give me CONTROL and create ACTION at
the table...

If a nine had come out at the flop in the example above, I
wouldn't have needed to slow-play it...

And I wouldn't have been worried about having a monster and
not winning any money with it (which happens to a LOT of
amateurs)... because I had already created action with my
FEELER BET.

So the next time you play no limit Texas Holdem, throw out
feeler bets consistently and use them to your advantage.

Nothing too big... just enough to get a read on your
opponents and find out where you're at in each hand.

You'll IMMEDIATELY realize the POWERFUL EFFECT that feeler
bets will add to your game.

Because you'll have HUGE stacks of chips in front of you at
the end of the night...

While EVERYONE ELSE will just be sitting there, with their
jaws wide-open, wondering how in the world YOU BEAT THEM SO
BADLY...

Winning Against Players Who Never Fold

The only thing WORSE than a player who never folds is
someone who doesn't know how to BEAT a player who never
folds...

C'mon man, the answer to this is EASY!

GO ALL-IN.

That's it.

If you've got top pair and your friends at the table are
chasing a straight or a flush, put them to a decision for
all their chips.

You said it yourself... you "usually" win.

Any time your odds can be described as "USUALLY", don't be
scared to push your entire stack in the middle.

Period.

If they call, great. You'll "usually" win all their money.
If they fold, that's good too, because you still won the
hand.

Oh yea, and one more thing...

Quit being such a baby when you lose. You'll never win ALL
THE TIME so just get over it already! ;-)

When To "Smooth Call" Your Opponents

A smooth call is when you're holding a REALLY GOOD hand and
someone bets into you... but instead of RAISING, you simply
CALL.

The smooth call is VERY POWERFUL, but a lot of players
totally mess it up. Here's how to do it RIGHT...

Let's say you're playing a cash game of no-limit Holdem at a
10-man table. The blinds are $5-10.

You're sixth to act before the flop (good positioning) and
you pick up pocket Aces...

Nice!

A couple players limp-in and the action is to Don, who's an
aggressive player.

He makes it $125 to play.

This is a rather large pre-flop raise at this table. The
normal pre-flop raise has been between $50 and $75 up to
this point.

You immediately put Don on something like pocket Jacks or
tens.

Why?

Because you know that if someone makes an UNUSUALLY large
pre-flop raise, it's probably because they have a hand they
DON'T want to play.

And quite often that hand is 10's or J's.

So anyway, the next guy folds and now the action is to you
with your monster American Airlines.

What should you do?

This is an ideal situation for a smooth call.

Here's why:

You know Don is going to bet again after the flop--
regardless of what hits-- since he made such a large
pre-flop raise.

And you also know that you've got Don beat right now. If you
call his bet, there's no way he's going to put you on Aces.

If you RAISE, Don is going to be scared. Because RAISING
after a big bet means you must have a monster. And that
basically gives away your hand.

OK, so you make a smooth call and put $125 in the middle.

Everyone else mucks their cards, so it's just you and Don to
see the flop.

The flop comes out a "rainbow" (which means there are three
different suits on the board):

8-7-4

This is the perfect flop for you. You figure Don has a
pocket pair HIGHER than the cards on the board, which means
he'll be confident betting his hand.

The only thing to be WORRIED about is if Don has pocket 8's,
since that would mean he just made trips. If he DID have
trips, he'd probably check after the flop and fake weakness.

So anyway, the action is to Don and... as expected... he
comes out firing a $250 bet.

What now?

Well, you could come back over the top of him and take this
pot right now. Or you can do ANOTHER smooth call and go for
the kill.

You think for a few moments... hesitate... then smooth call.

The turn card comes and it's a four, which is PERFECT for
you.

Don doesn't hesitate and puts his last $500 into the pot
now... thinking he has the best hand.

You call, and throw over your monster Aces.

Don shakes his head in disgust and throws over his pocket
Queens.

And you win a massive pot.

Now, that's basically the "ideal" way the smooth call works.
Let's discuss the RIGHT CONDITIONS when you'll want to make
a smooth call... and how you can add this powerful move to
your "poker toolbox"...


*** CONDITIONS FOR A SMOOTH CALL ***

The smooth call is the combination of two main components:

ANTICIPATION + SLOW-PLAYING

The INTENTION of the smooth call is to FOOL your opponents
while letting them dig their own grave.

Here's what I mean...

The smooth call operates on the fact that you ANTICIPATE
that your opponents will continue betting... AND... that you
have the best hand at the table.

When your opponents think THEY have the best hand, they'll
be confident with their betting. They'll become
pot-committed... and will get frustrated that you won't back
down.

That's when they'll make a mistake and go all-in, or simply
bet too much, and you'll come out on top.

There are four main "conditions" for performing a smooth
call... Here they are:

1. You don't need to figure out where you're at, because you
KNOW you have the best hand.

2. You ANTICIPATE future bets from your opponent.

3. You have good positioning.

4. You're not worried about too many players getting in the
hand.

The first condition basically means you should only smooth
call when you have really good hands. We'll talk about the
EXACT hands to smooth call with more in a minute.

We've already gone over the second condition... you need to
ANTICIPATE future bets from your opponent. Most of the time,
players who raise before the flop will bet AGAIN after the
flop.

The third condition is POSITIONING. You can't perform a
smooth call if you're first to act. Then what you're doing
is just check-calling your opponents... which ISN'T the same
thing.

And the final condition for a smooth call is that you're not
at risk of having lots of players in the hand.

This last condition is important because it will help you
prevent bad beats.

Basically, when you have a monster hand before the flop, you
want to narrow the field down to one or two callers...

If you have three or more players seeing the flop, your
monster will get run down by someone who gets lucky.

In the example I shared earlier, Don had made a large
pre-flop raise of $125. That meant there was no danger of
too many players calling...

If the pre-flop raise had been only $40 or so, it would NOT
have been a good situation to smooth call... because the
raise would have gotten multiple callers. And then you're at
risk of a bad beat.

OK, so those are the conditions that need to be present in
order to make a smooth call.

Remember, the REASON a smooth call is powerful is because it
"represents" something like a draw, low pocket pair, or hand
like A-K, A-Q, or K-Q.

If you smooth call before the flop, your opponent will
probably put you on something like suited connectors, two
face cards, or a low pocket pair.

After the flop comes out and your opponent THINKS he has you
beat, he'll keep INCREASING his bet sizes to try to scare
you out. This is a fundamental poker principle...

For each successive round of betting, the bets and raises
will INCREASE. The bets after the flop will be larger than
the bets before the flop. The bets after the turn will be
larger than the bets after the flop. And so on.

In our example, if you came back over the top of Don BEFORE
the flop, he would have folded. That means you would have
won his $125.

At MOST he may have called a $125 raise from you... but then
would have check-folded after the flop. In that case, you
would have won his $250.

But by smooth calling, you got BOTH his $125 bet (pre-flop)
and $250 bet (post-flop)... and then by smooth calling again
you got his remaining $500.

The key is to trick your opponent into thinking he has the
better hand... and let HIM take the offensive. If you can do
that, you're money.


*** HANDS TO SMOOTH CALL WITH ***

You want to smooth call before the flop with hands like Aces
or Kings. You DON'T want to smooth call with something like
A-K or A-Q.

Big Slick is a great hand... don't get me wrong... but it's
not "complete". By itself, Big Slick is just an Ace high. If
the flop doesn't help you and your opponent comes out
firing, you're in trouble.

If you're going to smooth call after the flop or turn,
you'll want to do it with hands like trips, two pair, or an
over pair (like in our example).

Trips and two pair are usually "hidden" from your opponent,
which is why they make great smooth call hands. (Remember,
it's all about making your opponent think he's got the best
of you.)

OK, TWO MORE THINGS to keep in mind...

First off, there are DANGERS to smooth calls. The main
danger is if your opponent catches a better hand than you.

You should be ready for this if there's something on the
board like a straight draw, flush draw, or two face cards.

Let's say you smooth call before the flop with pocket Kings
and the flop comes out 3-Q-6, all diamonds.

If your opponent comes out firing aggressively, be careful.
He wouldn't come out betting UNLESS he felt like he's still
got you beat.

I mean, think about it: Those three diamonds are going to
SCARE him... unless they HELPED him.

It's the same way with flops like 10-J-Q, K-K-5, K-Q-10,
J-A-3, and so on. If there are two face cards out there,
your opponent might have just made trips or two pair. If
there's a straight draw on the board and he's not scared,
YOU should be scared.

The second thing to think about is how you can INTEGRATE the
smooth call into the rest of your game...

The smooth call is a "maneuver" or "play". It will bring you
tons of extra pots and winnings when added to the STRONG
FOUNDATION of your poker skills.